Firstly I wish to thank all members for the wealth of knowledge and information this forum hoards!!! hugely beneficial to a novice as I am. Thank you all.
A few years ago I had the life changing experience of loosing my wife of 29 years to cancer, I'm sure this is all too familiar a story to many members. The outcome of it all was that a re-evaluation of life was undertaken and a fully loaded secondhand Mac 26M, Jack Sound was re-located from Portishead (Bristol) to Aberdeenshire.
I like to think of myself as reasonably "handy", I would go as far as suggesting: If your not, don't get a boat!! With this in mind the trailering of "Jack Sound" 520 miles north went reasonably well, considering what could have gone wrong!!! Wasn't as easy/simple as first imagined (Naive!!)
Pre-amble over, my question is: What is the opinion of members for the acceptable final resting position of the mast for road transportation?
If one merely folds it down, it protrudes out the back of the boat several feet. Do members remove the mast at the base and move forward? just fold it down? I would be interested to know what the general feeling is
The legal length limit for towing is slightly wooly!! It talks about "Trailer" length, Drawbar length and overhang, all of which the Mac 26M appear to push to the limit. Does the mast protruding out, break the straw of the legal back?
I would hope to travel south again with "Jack Sound" for an Association outing without requiring 4 people and a full day to rig up!!
Apologies, several questions in there, but hopefully it all makes sense.
Thank you in advance,
Andy Massie, Aberdeenshire
New member and novice.
Hi Andrew, welcome to the MOA.
In answer to your main question, the mast MUST be moved forwards and the foot of the mast bolted to the bracket on the pulpit. It's position when first lowered is only temporary, and not stable for any kind of towing.
The UK law on the permissible sizes of trailers is a bit odd, especially where boats are involved. The maximum length is I believe 7m, and the width 2.4m (that's from memory, if I'm wrong I'm happy to be corrected!). However, certain trailer loads (e.g. boats) can overhang the trailer both on each side and rearwards. You could argue that the trailer would be more stable and safer if it was larger so there wasn't an overhang, but that's not the way the rules work - such a trailer would be illegal.
Macs on their trailers are legal, even with the overhanging mast.
Rigging gets quicker and easier with practice!
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
As another Scottish 26M owner, I would be glad to meet up and 'show you the ropes' if needed. I was lucky enough to buy a Mac with the mast raising system included in the deal. It makes the job so much easier. Whilst trailing the boat I have the mast bolted to the bracket behind the front navigation lights. The mast is than tied down on the cradle at the back of the boat (on the push pit). To stop the mast bouncing around during a road trip, I also have a rope wrapped around the mast and threaded through the handles either side of the sliding hatch.
To trail legally the prop of the outboard should be covered with an orange coloured bag and it is a good idea to have both rudders fixed (preferably bolted) in a raised position. Currently I tie my trailer lighting board above the rudders and outboard and run the cable along the deck and through the ladder before attaching it to the car socket.
I always try to give the trailer at least two ( or even more) hours to cool down before immersing it when launching the boat. This prevents the hubs from cooling quickly and taking in water to dilute the bearing grease. My two hours cooling down period is normally spent getting the mast raised, removing the bolts from the rudders, placing the fuel cans aboard and emptying the car of everything I mean to take with me.
There is a wealth of knowledge on this forum. Just ask and someone should answer or show you where the answer is mentioned already.
Pat Saddler
GladNick 26M
Andrew,
I just moved my 26M, so this is all fresh in my mind. I concur that the master must be move forward. Additionally the center of the mass should be supported in someway. The previous owner for my bow used a piece of guttering about a foot long and connected that, Kirby side up, to a 4 inch piece of pipe. Finally he connected all that to a base made of plywood about a foot square. I think I'm going to rework this so support actually bolts on where you will end up bolting the mast- that way it won't move around.
I also recommend just going ahead and taking all of the shrouds off the mast for transport. Hope this helps!
David
Logan's Run
David Claassen
"Logan's Run"
2006 26M
This page from the NTTA makes the legalities of trailer size clear(ish)
Dave Newton Sailbadthesinner
Oooops, site crashed on the upload
Dave
NTTA towing dims.pdf
Dave Newton Sailbadthesinner
Andrew,
Firstly sorry for your loss but happy for the gain it brought. The information is pretty much good but I have some concerns.
1. the stowage of the mast was designed to fit between pulpit and stern support, bolted at the front and strapped at the stern. To differ from this arrangement could render legalities against you. Its not should an incident occur that you were wrong in how you stowed the mast only that you didn't use the designed and certified method of stowage.
2. Orange is a good idea for the outboard. Better still is High Visability material. This is to highlight the Explosive content.
For anything that over hangs the carrying vehicle by one meter should be marked with RED cloth and or AMBER flashing light front and rear. The idea is to alert the gaining vehicle that something unusual there could injur them and there for take extra caution hence tail lights are RED.
3. Lighting above two meters should be duplicated at a lower levels. This could mean that a mast connected at the mast foot and extending in an upward direction as it travels rearwards, may require additional lighting.
4. For those who mention mast support. My user guide says when raising the mast connect cables a,b, c and so on suggesting that the mast is stripped of its guide lines and accessories when stowed. This would reduce weight along its length and thus bounce would be reduced. Adding support reduces the amount of flex in its length and my concern is the added stress placed onto the mast by not allowing it it to flex
I have to admit I rarely transport JJ more than a couple of hundred meters until I get her more suitable for adventuring further a field so good luck in your adventures, fair winds and remember a bad day sailing beats a good day at work any day.
Woody DB
Jack Jeavons, M26C Fair winds to all
Totally agree with everything said. In addition I detach the spreaders from the mast and lash them to the mast with as much of the shrouds as possible, leaving everything else connected. It is a matter of minutes. They can buckle as the mast flexes.
It is better and quicker to do ths on dry land. I have just had to do it afloat, but on a mooring and had to stop half way through and get help as the mast slewed off at various angles as the boat rocked with the waves and the wind didn't help either.
There is a video clip of a chap motoring along in his Mac and just strolling up yo the winch, lowering the mast to go under a bridge, then raising it again all single handed.
Simon Armitage
Sowenna (26M)
The most difficult bit about lowering and raising the mast on the water is managing not to drop the pin and circlip into the sea when re-attaching the forestay.
Does anyone use a better attachment method?
Dennis Bolt
Breckon
Denis. Rightly or wrongly I use a small shackle with a retained pin. Seems to work.
David. (Somerled 26X)
i have lengths of thin but strong twine which I tie to all pins, clips, shackles and then to a suitable point on the boat or even to my wrist. Has saved me money and time.
I tried a drop nose pin once but it sheared so it was obviously not strong enough
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