Hi Keith, I just not used to using this site so I hope you forgive my error in reply above. When you looked at Tiftt Loy for me there was an extension bar with it. I now have it . I will take photos and add here if I can. I have always launched my boat using a rope just as Rick nicely described . I never get my tow vehicle near the water.
Hmm, easier said than done when reversing onto the slipway involves a 90 degree blind turn off a roadway! That's what I have to deal with at Island Harbour where I keep my boat. There just isn't room to line everything up on the flat.
I'll keep mulling it over.
—
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
echoing the above, the winch as fitted is too low resulting in it trying to pull the boat down on the trailer. My boat yard fitted another winch much higher up on an extension to the trailer post which helps and I can move the boat up using it but it's hard. However the sheer geometry of boat v trailer means when the boat is level in the water, the trailer is at the slope of the slip so the bow is right up to the post but as the trailer draws out the boat rotates downwards at the stern-does the M do that? The official Mac instructions to combat this used to be the 'MacGregor shuffle', moving forward and braking sharply so that the inertia drive the boat forward on the trailer , something I've not heard of for a while. does anyone else do it?
Another thing I have had fitted by my boat yard is a fixed wheel aligned with the trailer - it carries the spare wheel. It has the advantage that you can lower the boat into the water or indeed retrieve with the car well out of the water. Only disadvantage is that it does not steer so it's fine on a wide ramp but not as Rick has indicated above anything involving any turns.
Coming into this late...but I always use a rope. Blocks behind trailer wheels .detach hitch .apply rope .drive fwd till tension. Remove blocks and reverse back.
Similar on retrieval . Just need really solid jockey wheel and watch it doesn't lift or wander into a rut. Weight never an issue if taken slowly since it drains out as you go.
Contrary to advice I have altered my trailer to a roller coaster. The rollers substantially line up with the front to back beam created by the ballast tank, the main strength of the boat and l believe giving plenty of support. To date it has travelled very well on the trailer.
It sits 100mm higher which seems obviously a negative. However I can now easily move it back and forth on the trailer and thus winch it back into the water which means the trailer doesnt need to go any deeper than before.
I suspect I could put it on the ground and lift it back on again supporting the eye with straps to the back of the boat though I haven't been brave enough to try. I have been successful doing this with my Privateer 20.
Being able to move the boat makes cleaning easier and would help with ant- fouling.
I no longer need to brake shunt the boat forward as it is easy to winch forward.
I have to begin by saying I have never been a fan of any method that involves unhitching the trailer from the tow vehicle. I know life is full of risks and towing a Mac certainly involves risks and sure, some risks are just worth taking!
However, just as we do when we are on the water, it's a matter of being aware of where the danger lies and applying good discipline to mitigate the risk.
Here are some thoughts:-
When the boat is being launched in a conventional way there is no need for anyone to be anywhere near the rig as it is moving. The only close work is to detach the strap but this can be done once the trailer is in the water and stationary. The considerable braking and driving power of the car is always available plus the option of engaging gear with engine off to hold things in place. The break-away cable is deployed throughout the launch or recovery to provide some back-up in the event of the trailer becoming disconnected (Yes - I managed to do that once when recovering Hera - I hadn't checked properly that the green indicator on the tow ball was showing - backed the trailer in without a problem and started pulling the boat out - the angle and the weight then caused the hitch to jump off the tow ball - bye bye boat and trailer - break-away cable worked a treat and the well-adjusted trailer brakes held by themselves on the ramp!)
This is the point really – if it can happen it probably will happen at some stage.
So what does unhitching involve? The preceding posts mention some of the essential features – Use of chocks (how effective on a slippery slope?). Trailer brakes without any back up or assistance from the car. Level ground has been mentioned but I have seen plenty of unhitching operations carried out partly on the ramp. Humans and their erroneous ways?! Misunderstandings. Oversights. Too many people too near the trailer who confidently believe they are strong enough or quick enough to push or steer 2 tons of plastic and metal if something unexpected happens – without slipping on some slimy green seaweed! I wonder if the poles provide for use of a breakaway cable attachment – no reason why not? Also rope users – do you make a loop to which you can attach the break-away cable?
It’s all that sort of stuff that concerns me – hence my rather cautious approach to this topic.
Hi Keith, I just not used to using this site so I hope you forgive my error in reply above. When you looked at Tiftt Loy for me there was an extension bar with it. I now have it . I will take photos and add here if I can. I have always launched my boat using a rope just as Rick nicely described . I never get my tow vehicle near the water.
Hmm, easier said than done when reversing onto the slipway involves a 90 degree blind turn off a roadway! That's what I have to deal with at Island Harbour where I keep my boat. There just isn't room to line everything up on the flat.
I'll keep mulling it over.
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
John
echoing the above, the winch as fitted is too low resulting in it trying to pull the boat down on the trailer. My boat yard fitted another winch much higher up on an extension to the trailer post which helps and I can move the boat up using it but it's hard. However the sheer geometry of boat v trailer means when the boat is level in the water, the trailer is at the slope of the slip so the bow is right up to the post but as the trailer draws out the boat rotates downwards at the stern-does the M do that? The official Mac instructions to combat this used to be the 'MacGregor shuffle', moving forward and braking sharply so that the inertia drive the boat forward on the trailer , something I've not heard of for a while. does anyone else do it?
Another thing I have had fitted by my boat yard is a fixed wheel aligned with the trailer - it carries the spare wheel. It has the advantage that you can lower the boat into the water or indeed retrieve with the car well out of the water. Only disadvantage is that it does not steer so it's fine on a wide ramp but not as Rick has indicated above anything involving any turns.
Rod
Coming into this late...but I always use a rope. Blocks behind trailer wheels .detach hitch .apply rope .drive fwd till tension. Remove blocks and reverse back.
Similar on retrieval . Just need really solid jockey wheel and watch it doesn't lift or wander into a rut. Weight never an issue if taken slowly since it drains out as you go.
Roly
I have only had to use a rope twice and both times i did exactly as Roly describes. Just add the word 'gently'.
Anyway, I haven't got a functioning trailer any more so have to rely on the marina hoist to get me in and out of the water.
Simon Armitage
Sowenna 26M
Contrary to advice I have altered my trailer to a roller coaster. The rollers substantially line up with the front to back beam created by the ballast tank, the main strength of the boat and l believe giving plenty of support. To date it has travelled very well on the trailer.
It sits 100mm higher which seems obviously a negative. However I can now easily move it back and forth on the trailer and thus winch it back into the water which means the trailer doesnt need to go any deeper than before.
I suspect I could put it on the ground and lift it back on again supporting the eye with straps to the back of the boat though I haven't been brave enough to try. I have been successful doing this with my Privateer 20.
Being able to move the boat makes cleaning easier and would help with ant- fouling.
I no longer need to brake shunt the boat forward as it is easy to winch forward.
Regards Jonathan
I have to begin by saying I have never been a fan of any method that involves unhitching the trailer from the tow vehicle. I know life is full of risks and towing a Mac certainly involves risks and sure, some risks are just worth taking!
However, just as we do when we are on the water, it's a matter of being aware of where the danger lies and applying good discipline to mitigate the risk.
Here are some thoughts:-
When the boat is being launched in a conventional way there is no need for anyone to be anywhere near the rig as it is moving. The only close work is to detach the strap but this can be done once the trailer is in the water and stationary. The considerable braking and driving power of the car is always available plus the option of engaging gear with engine off to hold things in place. The break-away cable is deployed throughout the launch or recovery to provide some back-up in the event of the trailer becoming disconnected (Yes - I managed to do that once when recovering Hera - I hadn't checked properly that the green indicator on the tow ball was showing - backed the trailer in without a problem and started pulling the boat out - the angle and the weight then caused the hitch to jump off the tow ball - bye bye boat and trailer - break-away cable worked a treat and the well-adjusted trailer brakes held by themselves on the ramp!)
This is the point really – if it can happen it probably will happen at some stage.
So what does unhitching involve? The preceding posts mention some of the essential features – Use of chocks (how effective on a slippery slope?). Trailer brakes without any back up or assistance from the car. Level ground has been mentioned but I have seen plenty of unhitching operations carried out partly on the ramp. Humans and their erroneous ways?! Misunderstandings. Oversights. Too many people too near the trailer who confidently believe they are strong enough or quick enough to push or steer 2 tons of plastic and metal if something unexpected happens – without slipping on some slimy green seaweed! I wonder if the poles provide for use of a breakaway cable attachment – no reason why not? Also rope users – do you make a loop to which you can attach the break-away cable?
It’s all that sort of stuff that concerns me – hence my rather cautious approach to this topic.
Hope this is food for thought
Mike
Thanks Tom, yes, that’s where I saw the extension bar. Always thought about making one but since reading the forum I think I will try rope first.
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