Hello All,
I'm finding it difficult to understand the ratings for winches, and equating them to practical trailering.
1) I need to replace my existing trailer winch as its knackered, and a visit to MachineMart left me bereft of the will to live! My existing winch is a Dutton-Lainson and is rated at 1100 lbs/499 Kg. Can I be sure that that is sufficient to fulfil the purpose for which it's intended - as I see it is only to hold the boat and trailer together whilst towing and not to actually winch the boat up the ramp onto the trailer - correct? Also, I have an issue with the correct way to load the strap onto the winch - there are 2 axles (sic) on my existing winch and I have no idea which one to load the strap on to, or is it somehow around both?
2) I'm also exploring the idea of using an electric winch to recover the boat and trailer from the water (I'm sick of getting my rear car wheels wet - not to mention my feet) and again I've no idea of the capacity of winch that will do the job. They're rated in Kg and, at the lower end of the price spectrum, they range from 907kg to 1588kg. I realize that the combined weight of the trailer and boat (including the ballast, for at least a short way up the ramp, is appreciably more than that but is it correct to assess the load in this way?
I hope the more engineeringly qualified amongst us may be able to help.
Kind regards, John Richardson 'Sonny' 26M
Hi, well the winch straps rot in time. Cheap replacements on ebay.
depending on th steepness of the ramp some tension is required.The boat should touch the forks.
Hi John
Re. the trailer winch - correct, we don't winch our Macs onto the trailers, so the winch is more a securing device. It's also usually used to pull the boat those last few inches up to the bow buffer, but that's about it. It does of course have to hold the weight of the boat as you haul the trailer up (I attach a rope as well for redundancy at this point). My view is that a decent winch that is physically the same size (important for fitting!) is good enough.
On the winches I've used, there is a spindle and a bolt, which looks a bit like two spindles at first glance. The bolt goes through the stitched loop in the end of the strop, and then the strop wraps round the bolt and spindle as you wind it in.
Re. a car-mounted electric winch, this is a completely different ball game! First, a bit of mechanics: The force required to haul a weight up a slope depends on the slope. Roughly speaking, if the slope is 1 in 10 then the force is 1/10 the weight being hauled. If the slope is 1 in 4, then it's 1/4 the weight, etc. Another wrinkle is that the max. rated load of an electric winch only applies when the cable or strop is fully extended. As it winds in, the effective diameter of the drum increases, which reduces the load it can pull. E.g when the diameter of the spool is double that of the empty drum, the max load is halved. Given that a Mac 26 with ballast on trailer can easily weigh over 2500kg, I would say a winch rated at 1500kg is the minimum you should rely on.
Of course another solution to getting the wheels wet is to use a rope. Hitch the trailer to the car using the rope, then haul the trailer up by driving the car. I haven't tried this setup myself, but I'm sure some other members have. I think I'll try this method myself next year, as I'm getting rust in the rear underside of my van, which is needing some work. I'd prefer not to end up with it falling apart!
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
I was never able to get my 26X fully on the front stop and the only way was to drive about 20 mph and brake violently (preferably with nobody close behind) which did the job a treat!
I have just bought a new Mersea/Snipe trailer for my latest homebuilt boat and the Maypole 1420 which they fit as standard is rubbish and a death trap. I plan to replace it as it will do serious damage to somebody one day and would appreciate any positive reviews of winches that anyone has good experience with.
I always use the rope method (except on steep slopes where car wheels are still out of the water) and it works fine.
I have also bought Floatem poles (www.floatem.co.uk) and again these work fine and the guy who makes them is most helpful. If you get the bright yellow covers they are also great for drivers coming the other way on narrow lanes. (I have no connection to this company before anyone asks).
Chris H
I'd be very leery of using a winch to haul the boat into the trailer. Those U bolts on the bow aren't very strong and often have no backing plates. I'd be concerned I'd pull the U bolt right out of the bow before I pulled the boat onto the trailer
Leigh Ross
Crieff
0777 558-4561
1990 MacGregor 26S Ptarmigan
1992 MacGregor 26S Pelican
Hi John,
I’ve just replaced my winch with the same one that came with the trailer. It’s a 900KG MAYPOLE MP1420 PROFESSIONAL HAND WINCH 2 SPEED - BOAT TRAILER - 2000LB purchased off eBay at £56.54. Including free postage. The seller was extremely helpful.
Another alternative to an electric winch or rope is an extension bar with a hitch on one end and tow ball on the other. Double the length by using two tubes, one fitting inside the other with holes and a 1/2inch diameter pin to lock it at length. Strap it to the trailer when trailering. Benefit is that you still have control of the rig (within reason). The downside is the added weight you will be carrying I dipped the back end of my Kia in sea water just over a year ago. I jet washed it when I got home but I can’t believe the rust that’s now eating away at the rear end☹️
e-trailers sales@e-trailers.co.uk
01566 880228
E Trailers
Fennel Farm Badgall Launceston
PL15 8SZ
Thanks to you all for informative comments. I've now ordered a new trailer winch, confident that I've ordered correctly. As far as the vehicle mounted electric winch is concerned, I will research a bit more, as well as considering the extension bar idea from Keith. I've looked superficially on the net but can't find a ball one end and a hitch the other. Where did you get yours?
Regards, John Richardson 'Sonny' 26M
Here's one place
http://www.boattrailerlaunchingpoles.co.uk
I haven't dealt with them so no idea of quality etc
'89 Macgregor 26D: Getaway
I'd appreciate if someone who uses a pole or rope could detail the exact procedure, specifically for getting the trailer down the ramp.
As I see it, you need to back the trailer onto the ramp while directly connected to the car, then apply the brake, unhitch it, and drive the car forward so as to connect the rope or pole. Then presumably you release the trailer brake, before reversing the car, allowing the trailer to run down the ramp under its own weight, restrained by the connection to the car.
Have I got this right, and what are the catches (must be some!)?
Is this easily a one-person operation, or does it need a second person to guide the trailer?
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
Hi Keith
I use a rope to launch DUSTY just as you described with an additional safety . I put a block of wood behind one wheel after putting on the hand brake. I have always used this method even with boat trailers without a hand brake. I never get near the water with the tow vehicle. I have also got an extension bar that I very rarely use. Another extension bar came with Tiftt Loy. This one is made up in 2 sections . One slides into the other and is adjustable. It also means that it is shorter for stowing away.
Hi Rick,
i haven't used a pole yet but my thoughts rare to line up straight and stop on level ground just before the trailer is on the decline , put the trailer brake on unhitch the trailer, move the tow car forward in dead straight line to allow the pole to be fitted and then very carefully keeping the rig in a straight line, move the trailer into the water. Obviously any steering correction will be critical!! really funny or extremely frustrating depending on your mental state?
I have emailed the suggested suppliers asking if they can offer any discount will post when I get a reply
Keith Star 26M
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