Hello
After suffering total steering failure (at a most inopportune moment) occasioned by a weld on the rudder bracket giving way and the anxiety state that gave rise to, I'm interested to know if any 26X owners have given any thought to emergency steering --- specifically the provision of an emergency tiller/rudder combo that would normally be stored out of sight but could be pressed into service when the chips were down.
I see elsewhere that John Pompei's getting a rapid engine disconnect and emergency tiller from BWY, but that's for his 26M, and mine's a 26X.
Any ideas welcome, thanks.
Stu
Hi Stuart
I've fortunately never been in the position of losing steering (I previously owned a 26X), but I know members who have. I think I recall someone who got out of trouble by strapping a broom handle to the outboard, and was thus able to steer under power - having disconnected the outboard from the linkage.
It's worth arranging your steering so you can fairly easily disconnect the motor for all kinds of reasons. For an X especially, you don't need any kind of expensive disconnect kit - the steering linkage is all exposed so a few tweaks are all that's required. I described the small adjustment I made to mine in this thread.
You could then work out some kind of tiller, akin to the broom handle, that you could fix to the motor in an emergency. It doesn't need to be pretty, but you would then be prepared rather than having to improvise on the spot! When motoring you don't really need the main rudders, the outboard gives you plenty of directional control by itself (regular outboard-powered boats don't have rudders).
Let us know if you come up with a solution.
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
Hi Rick
Thanks for the advice.
I'm not at all happy with the steering set up on my 26X. The rudder throw is differential. There's much more to starboard than there is to port. OK on a long sail, but very tricky when maneuvering in proximity to other boats.
I suspect it's not a standard set up. Perhaps I could take some photos when I'm next down and you might be kind enough to comment?
Thanks
Stu
Hi Stu
The 26X steering was always a bit hit-and-miss in my view. The best way to try to diagnose the problem is to disconnect all the linkage points and see which bits move OK and which don't (you need to have the boat on the trailer, it would be pretty hard to do on the water). It's also worth checking if the rudders are parallel when centered, if not you have to bend the V-bar to adjust.
The easiest way to check for parallel is to use the haul-up lines to hold the rudders horizontal, then you can measure the distance between them at the pivot and at the tip. I managed to bend my V-bar by wedging one end in the trailer chassis and heaving on the other end.
With the linkages disconnected you can mark where the limits of travel of the end of the steering cable are - i.e. when you turn the helm between full port and starboard locks. The point halfway between is where the cable should attach to the V-bar when the rudders are dead ahead. This may be the problem - it's possible to drill a new hole in the V-bar if necessary.
By all means post some photos when you get the chance.
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
This is slightly oblique Stu but I was advised by one of our transatlantic MacCousins to spend some time practising manouveuring with daggerboard/swing keel and both rudders fully up.
I was initially horrified as I had got used to steering my M as if it were a car. However, as he promised, the skill was slowly acquired.
I simply motored around my mooring for half an hour at a time, amongst loads of other boats, getting the feel of countering various amounts and direction of wind and current.
Also I tried doing this in reverse as well as forward; often using short sharp bursts to spin the boat without going too far.
Regarding adjusting the rudders to get them parallel, I simply drilled extra holes in the tie bar; I was surprised how little difference an inch made and had to shorten the other end as well.
Did the same thing with the engine connector to get the motor matching the rudders; the metal is a lot thicker though and you need good drilling technique:)
MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit - Suzuki DF50
Hi Guys,
I have installed the engine quick release from BWY but won’t be able to try it out until next season. I also got the emergency tiller device but so far can’t see how it is supposed to be used , I’ll take a photo when I’m next at the boat and maybe someone can suggest how it might be used.
i also bought a wheel brake friction kit which I have installed but whilst it was a bit fiddly to fit I can’t see how it is supposed to work as the screw adjuster seems to grind directly on the steel shaft , I’m going to ask BWY if this is correct, meanwhile if anyone can help it would be great.
On another issue raised recently, the kill cord debate - this is my first experience of such a device and I have to say I was wondering how best to use it, as the cord on mine is so short that I really could not reach the hatch if it was attached to me. I’m giving the matter some serous thought however, as in 2016, after sailing my Timpenny singlehanded on a glorious hot summers day on the Medway, I was running back to the Marina with hardly any wind when I decided if I was going to make the lock before iit closed for 3 hours I would need the help of my mercury sail drive outboard. It did not have a kill cord. Motoring with the main still up I decided to go forward to get my mooring line from the bow, as I came back towards the cockpit my weight made the main gybe dumping me overboard - with the outboard chugging away !!
Luckily, I was wearing my life jacket and still had the line in my hand which was attached to the bow cleat so I ended up being dragged into the hull by the cockpit which I was able to grab hold of, I was aware of the prop just a few feet away from my feet and tried in vain to reach the gear shift. As I regained my senses I looked around for help but there were no boats nearby, then I realised that the involuntary gybe had pointed the bow towards the mud flats which were exposed so all I had to do was wait a few minutes until we grounded. When we stopped I tried to climb into the cockpit using the line as a foot hold but the shape of the hull meant I just slipped . The answer was to brave the mud and clamber back over the bow - while the outboard tried to push u# up the bank. Needless to say I missed the lock, ruined my new I phone which was in my pocket but hopefully learnt a lesson that danger is always with us whatever the weather when afloat.
Since that day, I never venture out of the cockpit without hooking on, even when it’s dead calm, on my new Mac I’ve spent time rigging the main so I can hoist an reef from 5he cockpit, my mooring lines are led back to the cockpit so hopefully I’ll stay aboard .
One of the projects I have on the winter list is to rig some jack stays, again any info on how others have done this on an M would be appreciated. I was also reminded that perhaps even more dangerous than falling overboard when afloat, is falling off when ashore, as I read happened to Jim Rotherham on the Irish rally. When going out of the cockpit wherever you are, wearing a harness and clipping on should really be the norm, but I wonder how many of us will religiously do it !!
Like you all I can’t wait till next season,
Regards to you all,
John Pompei
ASHANTI
2008M
Hello
It's taken a while (I started this thread back in 2017) but I have sorted my emergency steering, and, since there was some interest in the topic at the AGM, I thought you might like some photographs.
Taken in the pouring rain and before I got Just Add Water ready for her launch (apologies for the very unkempt cockpit) they ought to be self explanatory. The tiller is made from laminations of ash(?) and the attachment to the lug of the outboard is via two nuts. Attachment takes less than a minute.
Just Add Water has an engine quick disconnect kit which enables the outboard, free of the rudders, to have a much greater arc than was previously the case. If we get on the water any time soon, I'll take pics of the tiller in action.
Questions welcome
Stu
IMG_0747 2
IMG_0750
IMG_0751 2
IMG_0752 2
Looks really nice Stu, and likely to be transferable solution to other Macs. Do you have to lift the captain's seat and is the range of turning ok?
Roly
Yes, you do have to lift the seat. I haven't tried it out in anger, but the range of movement suggests the turning circle will be better than using the hydraulic steering. Watch this space.
Stu
I have thought about this problem. My various Macs 2 post 2000 had stronger steering. If I had a rudder failure , i had this idea. If possible, raise one rudder, strap your spare dinghy oars and strap it to the raised rudder ,and use it to turn rudder.. regards to all.