Today I found a problem with the trailer for which I hope someone can provide some help.
I jacked up the trailer and boat onto axle stands so that I can overhaul the hubs and brakes, and also clean up the hull for later applying some anti-fouling later. I then noticed that a wooden section in the centre of the trailer was hanging down, and found a lump of wood connecting two metal and wood hull supports on either side of the trailer had broken off. This was level with the swing keel and the last time (and only time in our short ownership) the boat was returned to the trailer it was slightly offset to the right. Pressure from the edge of the swing keel on this piece of wood had broken it off on one side; it was only attached on each side close to the top by a long thin wood screw.
I removed the remaining screw (it snapped like a carrot) and took the wood away to reveal the metal support arms totally rusted away. The wood piece was obviously some sort of modification made by the previous owner, and from the way it was attached could not have been an original part of the trailer. Or could it?
My question is what is supposed to be fitted between the ends of the metal support arms across the trailer? I can’t believe they are just welded at the outer end with no support at the inner end, so is this chunk of rough-hewn wood a replacement for an original piece? Obviously the rusted-out support arms will need to be replaced, or can the rest of the trailer provide enough support to the boat without these sections?
I have photographs to illustrate the state of the trailer, but they seem to be too large to post (any tips on reducing the size of photos most welcome!). Anyway, I would appreciate any advice you may have to get the trailer repaired according to the original design.
2014-10-27 12.59.58
2014-10-27 13.04.47
Hi John
Those pictures look a bit odd to me. To start with, the centreboard should retract almost flush with the hull, yours seems to project quite a lot.
Do you know the make of the trailer? Most 26X boats were supplied on UK built trailers, as the American ones didn't conform to our rules. Mine was made by Mersea, but it didn't look like that underneath.
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
HI PLEASE EXCUSE CAPITALS -I FIND IT QUICKER AND CLEARER. I HAVE A PHOTO OF A WEST MERSEA MAC 26X TRAILER SHOWING ALL THE SUPPORTS ETC. IF SOMEBODY CAN TELL ME HOW TO POST THE PICTURE I WOULD BE GRATEFUL, ALTERNATIVELY IF I COULD HAVE AN E-MAIL ADDRESS OF THE ENQUIRER I CAN SEND THE PICTURE DIRECT. REF SPARE PARTS, I FOUND 'WESTERN TOWING' TO GIVE A GOOD SERVICE. THEIR WEB SITE SHOWS PHOTOS OF ALL THE BRAKE PARTS ETC. ON THE WEST MERSEY TRAILERS, THE BRAKES /HUBS ETC ARE AL KOBER ( GERMAN I BELIEVE ). I FITTED STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE CABLES AS THE ORIGINALS SEIZE UP AFTER BEING IN SALT WATER.
WHILST ON THE SUBJECT OF WHEELS, A TIP THAT I GOT OFF MY MECHANIC FRIEND-IS THIS. IF YOU HAVE HAD YOUR TRAILER IN THE WATER, AND THEN PARKED IT WITH THE HANDBRAKE ON FOR SOME TIME, THERE IS A GOOD CHANCE THE BRAKES WILL STICK AND YOU WON'T BE ABLE TO MOVE THE TRAILER ! I FOUND THAT THE WHEELS SIMPLY SKIDDED ( TRAILER EMPTY ) IF CAREFUL SHUNTING AND WIGGLING OF THE TRAILER DOES NOT WORK THEN YOU HAVE TO JACK UP THE WHEELS AND GIVE A WHEEL NUT A SMART CLOUT WITH A MEDIUM/ HEAVY HAMMER. I SAW THIS TRICK WITH MY OWN ( AMAZED EYES ) AND IT WORKED FIRST TIME WITH JUST ONE CLOUT REGARDS TO ALL. DAVID PHILLIPS.
Hi Rick,
It's a West Mersea Trailer, and I've photographed the name plate. The details are Gross Weight: 1600, Serial Number: R160MAC? (last character indistinct) Unladen Weight: 280, Tyre Pressure: 90. I guess it started life as a two-wheel and now is four. As regards the swing keel, the front is located correctly and flush with the hull, but doesn't seem to retract fully. The previous owner said it jammed occasionally and he had a rod which he used tap the keel free from inside! Next I'm going to drop the keel out and find out what's preventing it retracting, but first I need to trim off the end of the support arm that it's jammed against.
Hi David,
Thanks for that, I'll PM you my home email address for the photograph. And I'll check out the website you recommended, looks very useful. Regarding the tip about the brakes, I never leave the handbrake on, just chock the wheels. I've done this with my caravan for years too.
HI AGAIN, I THINK IT WAS BILL MILLAR THAT DRILLED A HOLE ON THE INSIDE OF THE BOAT ON THE RAISED SECTION ABOVE THE KEEL BOX TO THE REAR OF THE S/S TUBE. BUT A TUBE OR SOMETHING NEEDS TO BE ADDED AND SEALED TO GET THE ACTUAL HOLE ( SUITABLY BLANKED ) ABOVE THE WATERLINE, YOU COULD THEN USE A STICK OR SOMETHING TO POKE THE KEEL DOWN I THINK THAT A KEEL THAT WON'T DESCEND IS USUALLY CAUSED BY EITHER MUD/ STONES ETC WHEN A BOAT IS BEACHED, THOUGH I HAVE EXPERIENCED THIS PROBLEM ONLY ONCE ON A RIVER. AFTER A LOT ROCKING OF THE BOAT IT FREED ITSELF. REGARDS DAVID PHILLIPS.
P.S.REGARDING TYRE LIFE, IT SEEMS THAT WHAT EVER YOU DO TO PROLONG TYRE LIFE ( STORING INDOORS, JACKING UP THE TRAILER, LOWERING TYRE PRESSURE DURING WINTER STORAGE) ETC WON'T HELP. I WOULD SUGGEST AFTER ABOUT 5-7 YEARS THE TYRES SHOULD BE REPLACED REGARDLESS OF HOW FEW MILES THEY HAVE DONE. IN A PREVIOUS MAC ARTICAL YOU WILL SEE THE RESULTS OF A MOTORWAY BLOWOUT I HAD -NOT RECOMMENDED !
Yes, the inside of the boat has a sealed tube running through to above the keel, topped with a rubber cap. Not sure that this should be necessary IMO.
I've tried sending you a PM but it appears to be stuck in the Outbox of Private Messages, not been sent yet. Any Mods able to help with this?
Hi John
PMs remain in your outbox until they have been read by the recipient - that's how you can tell if they've been picked up.
The standard trailers are built with a cross member that sits under the aft end of the centreboard. This is a safety feature to prevent the board dropping onto the road when trailing, should the lifting rope break. Thus you can't just lower the centreboard on the trailer. However, you can remove it while on the trailer by dropping out the pivot hanger at the front, then it will slide forward clear of the cross member. Re-assemble in the reverse order!
The top of the centreboard housing is actually above the water line, though any hole needs sufficient sealing to prevent ingress from turbulence while sailing. I once experienced my board getting jammed in the trunk after spending the night on a drying river anchorage. I had to take it out (as above) and found a stone had wedged it in. So an emergency board-freeing hole is not a bad idea!
I don't know why your board is failing to fully retract. I suggest removing it, and crawling underneath with a torch to make a thorough inspection of the trunk. I would think there's either something stuck in there that shouldn't be, or maybe the lifting rope isn't running smoothly and is getting stuck just before the board is fully retracted.
David - please could I request that you NOT use all-capitals. I appreciate it saves using the shift key at the start of sentences, but the vast majority of people find continuous capitals much harder to read than conventional lower-case (that's why road signs, among others, use lower case rather than all caps).
PS - re. posting pictures: at the top of each section of the forum are some "announcement" posts. One of these is entitled "attaching files and pictures to posts". This tells you all you need to know about uploading pictures, including how to get the sizes right.
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
Thanks for the reply Rick, all your comments duly noted. So does this mean that the cross-member under the rear of the centreboard should be continuous, i.e. a single section across from the side beams of the trailer? Or is it intended to have a centre piece that can be dropped out (rather like mine, except the section dropped out on its own?)?
Hi John
On mine (which I no longer own) it was a continuous cross-member. It supported a sloping bracket on each side with wood-block bunks. There were two similar cross-members with bunks aft and forward as well. The centreboard could be dropped a few inches, but not far enough to remove or do anything useful.
I'm not quite sure on your trailer how the cross-member can support the boat if there's a gap in the middle, it doesn't seem structurally sound! It would probably help to see more pictures, ideally without the boat on. Is that possible?
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
its been " bodged" - badly! I've seen another mercea trailer with the center support snapped at the point of the inverted V. there is a welded strap on the underside that takes some of the expansive strain there. I've never seem one so corroded as that though. particularly as they are galvanized. The center piece has been bridged by the wooden block. as i said, bodged badly.
If the boat is not loaded lengthwise properly, that member can take the bulk of the weight alone. Have you a pic of the whole trailer?
From looking at the photos, I wonder if there are 2 problems here.
Firstly the dagger board is not fully retracted. This could be for any number of reasons including it not being a standard one.
Secondly the trailer has been modified (badly!) possibly to get round the first problem. The fact that the cross member has been cut could be a reason for the amount of corrosion. Also looking at the photo of the removed piece of wood, the cut out is not central so doesn't look right.
I know this doesn't particularly help, but it was just a thought as to the reason for the original mod.
Tim
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