Just wondering what preventative / maintanance can be done to stop the centre board going?
Annual inspection is probably best, you can do this on the trailer. The 26M dagger board can be lifted out from the top, which is relatively easy, can even be done on the water (disclaimer - I've never owned an M, so any M-ers feel free to correct me!).
The 26X is a bit more involved. You can't just drop the board on the trailer, as the back end is over a cross-member, this is deliberate to avoid the risk of it dropping out on the road. Instead you have to release the hanger that holds the pivot pin in order to drop out the front end, then you can slide the whole board clear.
The hanger is held in place by a nut under the floor just forward of the mast post. First ensure the lifting line is pulled tight and locked, then you can remove the nut. Then give the line a few inches slack and lock it in place again. The hanger bolt will be stuck in place with sealant, and usually takes a bit of hammering to release it. Screw the nut back on so it is level with the top of the bolt to protect the threads, and give it some whacks to release it - ideally with a wooden mallet but you might have to resort to careful use of a hammer if it won't move.
The hanger bolt should drop as far as the slack in the line allows, you can now carefully release the line and lower the board onto the ground. Then crawl under the trailer to get at it. The pivot pin will now slide out, allowing you to remove the hanger, and you can untie the lifting line. The whole board can be removed by sliding it forwards. It helps to have two people, one each side. Early models had a steel cable bolted to the board, joined to a line above deck. Later models simply have a line all the way, which was found to be better, so if you still have a steel cable I would discard it and replace the whole thing with a single piece of new line.
All but the earliest boards have a "step" on the top end, which hits the top of the hanger, preventing the board swinging too far forwards. You can see how this works by assembling board and hanger off the boat. This bit can easily get damaged, and may need building up again. There are a couple of steel bolts embedded in the GRP to give the step strength, they should still be there but if the GRP is broken up then it can be repaired with fibre-reinforced body filler. If badly damaged use some glass mat and resin to replace the bulk, then filler to finish off the profile.
Inspect the hanger for damage, especially the pivot pin holes. If they've become elongated then you need a new hanger. Also check the hanger-to-bolt area is not weakened. This part is probably cheaper to get made than import, and an ace mod is to use a longer bolt. By making the bolt long enough that the pivot pin clears the bottom of the hull when the nut is still on the end of the bolt, removal and replacement (especially) of the board is much, much easier. To re-fit the board with the standard hanger, you have to assemble the hanger on the board, then lift the whole thing into place, and get the bolt to line up with the hole in the top of the trunk - not easy! With a longer bolt, you can insert the hanger and put a nut on the end, then lift the board into place and insert the pin. Then pull everything into place using the lifting line. It's also helps to use two plain nuts locked together rather than a nyloc, otherwise it will take an age screwing the nut all the way down the much longer thread. Don't forget to put sealant around the base of the bolt before inserting.
As you can no doubt tell, I've done all this a few times myself in the past on my previous 26X!
—
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
If you are considering buying a center board from Blue water yachts , do not forget to build into the quote the shipping costs.
I recently ordered two Macgregor stickers plus the quick release steering bracket. The total weight was only 1.5 kg and Blue waters invoice was $164.00 plus $82.64 shipping. That did not include the duties and taxes at this end which was another £48.00.
A new center board will have a significant increase in duty because of the value.
I was only able to get two quotes on my replacement board 3 years ago and the final prices was not so different .
Looking back i was very pleased with the service David Heritage did. Yes there is about 10 kg increase in weight , but this makes the lifting and lowering more controlled since you do not feel that full 10kg. The board also does not knock or rattle when down and with the rock of the boat in its moorings.
Finally, the board was made in the shape of an aircraft wing ,with shark edges and thickening out into the center and
Annual inspection is probably best, you can do this on the trailer. The 26M dagger board can be lifted out from the top, which is relatively easy, can even be done on the water (disclaimer - I've never owned an M, so any M-ers feel free to correct me!).
The 26X is a bit more involved. You can't just drop the board on the trailer, as the back end is over a cross-member, this is deliberate to avoid the risk of it dropping out on the road. Instead you have to release the hanger that holds the pivot pin in order to drop out the front end, then you can slide the whole board clear.
The hanger is held in place by a nut under the floor just forward of the mast post. First ensure the lifting line is pulled tight and locked, then you can remove the nut. Then give the line a few inches slack and lock it in place again. The hanger bolt will be stuck in place with sealant, and usually takes a bit of hammering to release it. Screw the nut back on so it is level with the top of the bolt to protect the threads, and give it some whacks to release it - ideally with a wooden mallet but you might have to resort to careful use of a hammer if it won't move.
The hanger bolt should drop as far as the slack in the line allows, you can now carefully release the line and lower the board onto the ground. Then crawl under the trailer to get at it. The pivot pin will now slide out, allowing you to remove the hanger, and you can untie the lifting line. The whole board can be removed by sliding it forwards. It helps to have two people, one each side. Early models had a steel cable bolted to the board, joined to a line above deck. Later models simply have a line all the way, which was found to be better, so if you still have a steel cable I would discard it and replace the whole thing with a single piece of new line.
All but the earliest boards have a "step" on the top end, which hits the top of the hanger, preventing the board swinging too far forwards. You can see how this works by assembling board and hanger off the boat. This bit can easily get damaged, and may need building up again. There are a couple of steel bolts embedded in the GRP to give the step strength, they should still be there but if the GRP is broken up then it can be repaired with fibre-reinforced body filler. If badly damaged use some glass mat and resin to replace the bulk, then filler to finish off the profile.
Inspect the hanger for damage, especially the pivot pin holes. If they've become elongated then you need a new hanger. Also check the hanger-to-bolt area is not weakened. This part is probably cheaper to get made than import, and an ace mod is to use a longer bolt. By making the bolt long enough that the pivot pin clears the bottom of the hull when the nut is still on the end of the bolt, removal and replacement (especially) of the board is much, much easier. To re-fit the board with the standard hanger, you have to assemble the hanger on the board, then lift the whole thing into place, and get the bolt to line up with the hole in the top of the trunk - not easy! With a longer bolt, you can insert the hanger and put a nut on the end, then lift the board into place and insert the pin. Then pull everything into place using the lifting line. It's also helps to use two plain nuts locked together rather than a nyloc, otherwise it will take an age screwing the nut all the way down the much longer thread. Don't forget to put sealant around the base of the bolt before inserting.
As you can no doubt tell, I've done all this a few times myself in the past on my previous 26X!
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
If you are considering buying a center board from Blue water yachts , do not forget to build into the quote the shipping costs.
I recently ordered two Macgregor stickers plus the quick release steering bracket. The total weight was only 1.5 kg and Blue waters invoice was $164.00 plus $82.64 shipping. That did not include the duties and taxes at this end which was another £48.00.
A new center board will have a significant increase in duty because of the value.
I was only able to get two quotes on my replacement board 3 years ago and the final prices was not so different .
Looking back i was very pleased with the service David Heritage did. Yes there is about 10 kg increase in weight , but this makes the lifting and lowering more controlled since you do not feel that full 10kg. The board also does not knock or rattle when down and with the rock of the boat in its moorings.
Finally, the board was made in the shape of an aircraft wing ,with shark edges and thickening out into the center and
with a spray gel coat finish.
It might be fun to make a mold. Let me do some research when I get home
Leigh Ross
Crieff
0777 558-4561
1990 MacGregor 26S Ptarmigan
1992 MacGregor 26S Pelican
Hi. Thanks for the interesting information. Could somebody give me the URL of Blue Water Yachts. Can;t find them on google.
It's bwyachts.com
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
Pages