Hello everyone,
This is my first post here. I've been receiving the posts that everyone shares and it's great that everyone is helping each other.
We bought our MacGregor 26X earlier this year and have now started to go out in it but have had a couple of issues which are being sorted.
One particular issue I'd like some advice on is moving around with the engine on. In the handbook it says that you should not use the engine with the water ballast in place. Is she more responsive when the ballast is empty? Especially when mooring (moving slowly)?
Our mooring is on the Levens River at the bottom of Lake Windermere, there is always a current and the few times I've come into the Jetty it's been difficult as the current pushes the boat sideways when you turn into the jetty.
One of these occasions resulted in a crack in the side from the adjacent jetty.
Thanks for your help.
David Barrington.
Hi David
Welcome to the MOA, and nice to know you're finding the discussions interesting.
The warning about not using the engine with ballast is only in respect of going at speed (more than 8 - 10 kts). The engine can be used perfectly safely for manoeuvering and travelling at moderate speed fully ballasted (as any traditional yacht). In fact if you are not bothered about powering at speed, the easiest and safest thing is to keep the ballast tank full all the time. Or if you launch from the trailer, fill the tank after launching, and empty it as you pull the boat out again.
Macs have a high freeboard, so are susceptible to side winds, but ensure that you have some centre-board down when manoeuvering otherwise the boat will just skid about on the water. In general you need the rope about 1/3 of its travel from fully up. It also helps to have at least one rudder down.
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
Spot on David just about hits the nail on the head.
Ballast in all the time. ( Do any of you guys add anything to the tank to keep down the alga growth ) we have started adding a bit of bleach not had Macerella long enough to see the results yet.
Bit of center board Bit of rudder and make sure that you don't upset the boating Gods.
Macerlla
1996 26x
I put a small cup of swimming pool chlorine granules in my ballast tank - seems to ensure no smell and I am careful not to put too much to avoid gas build up. 2ppm is about right IMO between pool and hot tub recommended doses.
Whist I sold my Mac 10 years ago and went to the dark side with a steel gaffer, the same rules apply as my boat weighs 10t and has a 12hp inboard engine.
It is all totally about current and wind. 1 knot is I suggest equivalent to about 10 knots of wind. First decide which is the determining factor. Then use whichever is stronger to assess what this will do to you when you approach whatever you are trying to go alongside. If this is done right, then only gentle use of the engine and rudders is required and when you get it all right then it is very satisfying. I am not sure any of us get it right all the time.
I would also suggest that understanding the principle of a spring, fixed about midships, with a large loop on the other end (length about 10m) is THE key to going alongside. The looped end is taken back to the cockpit within easy reach of the helmsman. At the appropriate moment, take off all speed anf get the stern close to the pontoon and lean over and loop the spring over a suitable cleat on the pontoon. Go forward gently and get the boat to lay alongside the pontoon which it will with low forward revs.
This takes away all need for crew and wives to jump off the boat and then run back and forth to take bow and stern lines before wind or current push the boat off the pontoon. Even if the crew goes ashore, there is then only one line to put on a cleat and there is no need to rush around as the boat is completely stable allowing other lines to be secured.
This is probably the only way to secure alongside when single handed.
Regards Chris
We recently took our Mac up the Avon river from Bristol, and passing through the locks and disembarking and boarding becomes a fine art. As with the other comments, it's necessary to fill the ballast tank and have a bit of keel and the rudders down. I had a disaster not so long ago when I had a full ballast tank but the keel up, and the wind swept the Mac away from the landing stage and blew it sideways across the river. I became a great deal more proficient when I realised that manoeuvring is a lot easier using only a touch of forward or reverse and then back to neutral. The boat will still steer OK and slowing things down makes the whole process a lot easier to manage. Rather like a landing craft docking with the mother ship, a squirt here, relax, a squirt there, relax, and so on.
I also take a bit of advice from the canal boats and use a single mooring line attached to the cockpit forward rail to hook on a-midships; I can stay on the helm and just as I come alongside loop it over a bollard and steady the boat before the workers can get off and do the lock-gates :).
I think you may be misremembering the bit about not having water ballast in when motoring. My 26m has a warning on the pedestal that you should always have the water ballast in except in some exceptional circumstances - like when shedding ballast before hauling-out (although I prefer having the ballast in, for more control, when driving on to the trailer).
The centre/dagger board about a quarter down makes the boat turn more tightly and having the rudder(s) down gives steering when the propeller is in neutral - don't have the rudder only part down as it puts too much stress on the steering/rudder brackets.
Take the centreboard and rudders fully up when motoring over 5-6mph as they create lift when turning and can create instability.
As I understand it you can only achieve the speed necessary for full planing or towing a water skier with the ballast empty - must be little wind and small waves and no people/weight on the cabin roof.
My 50hp high thrust Yamaha would only achieve 13mph (gps) with full ballast when I tried it, but that was against an approx. 5mph head wind and 2-3mph current.
Ballast must be full or empty as it creates instability half-full and sloshing about.
Not sure about the 26x but my steering linkage arrangement meant that the motor and rudders would turn tighter in one direction than the other - amended it now.
Apart from that you should always try to approach a mooring into the wind and or current (current tends to have more effect but is not always apparent). There is no shame in having one or two passes at a mooring to test the prevailing forces before committing yourself to a final approach.
Always make sure your lines are ready and easily available on the correct side and have plenty of fenders in the right place at the right height before your final approach.
Last thing I can think of is that when you put a prop in reverse you tend to get a kick to one side or the other (prop walk) depending on the direction of rotation - if you know this you can compensate for it.
Practice manoeuvering around a buoy well away from any hard stuff and do everything at the slowest speed you can while maintaining steerage.
Have fun!
Very interesting comments on midships mooring, I've used similar ideas myself, and it's very effective for an initial or short-term mooring.
I like Chris's midships spring, i must try that.
A fitting well worth investing in is a pair of Barton track cleats (25mm size). A bit pricey for what they are, but you can use them on the cockpit or cabin roof tracks (and easily move them around), giving you an extra point to moor to. It's easier and more secure than trying to tie ropes to stanchions.
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
Hi Everyone,
Thanks for the comments, the advice is really helpful, we're back on board next weekend. So I can do some practising.
Many thanks,
David.
I think it best that the mast should be down if you want to empty the ballast and go fast. It helps lower the centre of gravity and the boat is more stable. Trim the engine so it is fully down to start with then open the throttle and the planing hull should start to rise up as you gain speed then trim the angle of the engine so as to keep the prop at the optimum angle to the water and of course the centre board and rudders should be fully up. For best results no wind, no tide, to waves but that is a difficult ask.