Chris and Quent thro' the Crinan

quentin.sands's picture

Chris and I enjoyed a ten day cruise that took us from James Watt Dock Marina to Salen, in Loch Sunart, and back. On the outward leg we had nights in Rothesay, Tarbert, Cairnbaan (on the Crinan canal), Craobh Haven, Oban, Tobermory (Mull), Salen; and on the return leg, Craobh Haven, Cairnbaan and Tarbert.

It is both expensive and a tad tiresome, going through the Crinan - zen-like patience is required - but the rewards are great. The white tailed eagle that was showing off its hunting skills at Dorus Mor, the Cullen Skink from Lucy's at Craobh, the majestic mountains on Mull and the hallucinogenic whirlpools of Cuan Sound, were instant highlights.

Oban's new-ish marina, close to the cosmopolitan and energetic town centre, was a taste of civilisation before goose winging towards the Sound of Mull, past the acrobatic colony of Arctic Terns on Lismore. The Mishnish Hotel in Tobermory was convivial; I enjoyed a large gin and tonic and very acceptable vegetable curry.

From Mull, we enjoyed a morning sail through the north east passage into Loch Sunart and meandered around the coastline of the Ardnamurchan Peninsular. We reached the hamlet of Salen and tied up to the visitor pontoon before a walk to the local hotel.

In the morning we started the journey home but Chris by now was under the weather, not much fun on a boat. In fact once we had exited the Crinan, Chris was confined to the cabin below on a drip feed of fresh water and vitamin c. In some way this helped me on my single-handed-sailor learning curve, having to manoeuvre in and out of Tarbert and then, on our final day, a long, exhilarating sail from Tarbert around the southern tip of Bute, almost all the way back to Greenock.

The following morning I put Chris on the train back to the south coast where he was admitted to hospital for five days. I am thankful that he is now fully recovered and wish to publicly apologise for poo-pooing his notion that it was the Cairnbaan midges 'what done him in.' From his hospital bed he reminded me of the engraving on Spike Milligan's grave, "I told them I was ill!"

The Firth of Clyde is a gift for trailer sailors and going through the Crinan, it just gets better and better.