Hello everyone,
I need some advice please. I've been trying to get someone to come and do some work on my boat in the Lake District but I'm not getting anywhere.
The main sheet was attached to the post that supported the cockpit table just in front of the steering binnacle. When we went out the first time I put the sails up we gybed and when the boom came over it tore the Post and the table out of the cockpit floor.
On closer inspection the post had only been put in poorly and it looked like it had happened before.
Currently we can't sail as there is nowhere to fix the main to.
Does anyone know who to contact in the Lake District that could help with a repair.
I also need the wiring tested as I don't think the batteries are charging when the engine is running.
Lastly we bumped into a jetty last year and need the side repairing as there is a small crack.
If you know someone who could help with this Please let me know. I'm expecting to pay, not expecting a favour.
Many thanks,
David.
David,
Sorry I can't be much use, at this end of the country.
I may be wrong but it sounds like your Mac may have been modified. My X has its main sheet attached to the GRP molding that forms the binnacle and the M has it on a track just outside the companion way. There are various versions over the years but I wasn't aware of one with a post forward of the binnacle.
The leverage on such a post would be large so I would expect it to be secured with a substantial base plate sandwiched to the cockpit sole with an internal spreader plate.
If you wanted to check over your electrical system yourself I would be happy to talk you through a few quick tests to confirm if it is all good or find where the problems are. Give me a call if that would help.
Regards,
Dave
07770 792427
Dave Newton Sailbadthesinner
Hi Dave,
Thanks for your reply. The post was immediately in front of the GRP moulding in the form of a tall horseshoe shaped post with a attachment point on the top of it and a folding cockpit table. The post was attached to the cockpit floor by 4 screws. I didn't even think about it until we took her out and the accident happened. It's lucky it didn't hit anyone.
I agree it needs a strong base plate on the cockpit sole and I need someone to do this for me.
Thanks for the offer of the help with the electrics. I'm in Liverpool and the boat is in the lake district. So it may take a while before I can get to her.
Thanks,
David.
Hi David
That post sounds great for a table, but really not a good idea for the mainsheet. Your boat's HIN suggests it's an early 26X, which means there should be a steel loop on the front of the steering console, near the top. That's the correct attachment point for the mainsheet.
As Dave mentioned, the forces on the mainsheet can be extremely high, and the console is designed to be strong enough and very securely attached through the cockpit sole. It's very hard to make any retrofit post that strong.
I suggest getting the post repaired for the table, and attaching your mainsheet to the console as intended.
Let us know how you get on.
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
For the engine electrics a simple test with a voltage meter will confirm the fault and locating it could take a little longer.
I am sorry I do not know the layout of your boat but guess the battery volatge is fed to the swtich block were you would turn on the various circuits. I would remove the switch block and at the rear you will see positive voltage fed to each switch with a common negative. Placing a volt meter across any positive and common negative will show battery voltage. Starting teh engine will show a drop in voltage followed by a rise once the batteries begin to charge.
If it is easier to get to your batteries you could go directly across them and get the same results
Battery voltage should be 11.5 to 12.5 with a rise to 13.75 or above when charging.
If you get no charge you can either follow the circuit back towards the engine or go to the engine and check the alternator output.
You can get a simple voltage multimeter starting at £8 pounds up from Halfords or something more professional from RS Components not to mention other outlets. If all you do is Voltage checks buy cheap but if you want to start testing equipment or data lead you will want a meter with higher impedance thus less draw on the circuit.
I don't get up to the lakes much so cant get to the boat to help but in the mean time fair winds and good luck
Dave Woody Wood Jack Jeavons Mag26C
Woody DB
Jack Jeavons, M26C Fair winds to all
Hi Dave,
Thanks for your help, I'm at the boat this weekend, I'll give it a go.
Cheers,
Dave.
I have purchased a battery tester which incorporates a load tester as well as a volt meter for under £16.00 from EBay. This means you can actually test the battery charge capacity as well as the alternator output, thus enabling a rapid diagnosis of any electrical problem.
Navigation is a series of plots. In fog the plot thickens...
Load testers for lead acid batteries are useful for checking the 'cold cranking ability' CCA of a battery i.e. its ability to deliver a high current for a short period e.g. while engine starting but they don't tell you anything about the battery capacity (in AmpHours, typically 50 to 150AHr for 12v leisure batteries) i.e. the ability to deliver a moderate current over a long period.
There are 'dummy load' cycle testers and they will measure the true capacity over a whole charge/discharge cycle but these cost a lot more. (mine was about £300).
There are also internal impedence testers (mine about £80). These will give your a good measure of the condition of a battery as it approaches end of life and if you have the data from the manufacturers you can estimate the remaining capacity but that data is normally only available from the top quality battery manufacturers. If you simply check the impedence regularly you can predict end of life as the impedence rises (providing you fully charge the battery first and measure at the same temperature each time (not so easy unless you take the battery indoors for 24 hours first) otherwise you do need the data to correct for temperature.
There are also battery monitors that will record the charge / discharge cycle as you use the battery and estimate its remaining capacity but these are only any good if you calibrate them properly with a new battery. These have been reviewed by the yachting press many times.
Best advice is NEVER discharge a battery below 50% of its capacity and ALWAYS recharge as soon as possible. Lead acid batteries hate being left in a partial or discharged state it can reduce the life from many years to a few months.
Dave.
Dave Newton Sailbadthesinner
Maiden Marine has done gel repair work for me. Not the cheapest but good quality work. Based at Ferry Nab, south of Bowness. 01539488050
There is also a mobile marine engineer based in the Bowness area but you'd have to look him up on the internet. He too is recommended, has done work for my brother and a bit cheaper.
Good luck.
Quentin Sands, past owner
1991 26C Mrs MacGregor
1993 Mac19, Margarita
Vishay 10Ω 5% 280W Adjustable Wire Wound Resistor from RS Components
https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/adjustable-resistors/7887781/
at £41.64 is what I use to load test my batteries. I run 4mm cables from the batteries through a double pole circuit breaker with an ammeter in series with the positive lead.
This is sufficient for me to load the batteries to initiate a cycle charge from my inteligent charger which I got out of the scrap bin at work saving me £300 for a 20p repair.
I am charging my batteries by solar power and every so often cycle them as I don't get to the boat as often as I would like with work sending me away as much as they do.
So far my leasure batteries are holding up nicely.
fair winds
Woody
Woody DB
Jack Jeavons, M26C Fair winds to all
I carry a battery booster, about £40.00, which is quick to connect and start the motor and useful in an emergency and for charging up phones etc.
Simon Armitage
Sowenna (26M)