More advice of an electrical nature please! I am attempting to clean up the mess of through-deck connections, and I was wondering how other Mac owners arrange their wiring and what the most suitable connectors to use.
I have three connections to make, two quite simple - two 2-core wires, one to supply the mast/steaming light and one to supply the masthead navigation tri-colour light. I also have a 6-core wire for the NASA Wind Direction and Speed Indicator, which is currently disconnected. Each strand of the wind indicator wire is extremely thin and the PO had made a very poor connection using an electrical connector block, from which the wires often worked loose.
I would be grateful if you can point me in the right direction for suitable connectors for all of the above connections (or many one for all?), which are currently either disconnected or using automotive male/female spade terminals (yes, I know..). Perhaps another one for you Dave?
Hi John,
The multicore cable is a DATA cable were the cores are 0.5mm or less and the connection block should ideally be telecommunications push fit between the blades, a gel filled crimp or a 1mm terminal block.
I have used a 1mm terminal block were I have bent the end of the core over to make it double in size and then crimp with a 0.75 or 1mm insulated bootlace ferrule crimp.
As for a through deck fitting it is unusual for all 7 cores to go to the mast head. My multicore uses 2 cores to go to the wind instrument at the head of the mast thus a two way through deck fitting (TDF) could be utilliised. I am however fitting a three way TDF to allow for a modified future wind instrument intended when funds allow.
I have also found the PO of my craft used a terminal block hidden in the floatation area below the deck fitting. This had rusted due to condensation presumable caused by the cooking facility below.
I will remove the block on re-wire and have purchased IP68 Gland access connection blocks to fit were a break in cable routes is required.
My personal advice would be to drop the mast and investigate how many cables you require. Being DATA the pos and Neg will have to be isolated from the Lighting Pos nd Neg.
On my mast I have
1 x Pos - Steamaing Light
1 X Pos - Try Colour
1 x Neg - Joint for the above
2 x Data Cores to the wind indicator
2 x Radio Antenna connections using 50 Ohm Coax Cable.
The two radio connections will allow for the American radio and UK Radio to be used but more importantly both can be utillised for two way DSC in the future not to mention failure quick fix.
Hope this helps
Woody - JJ hold up and not afloat screaming for fair winds
Woody DB
Jack Jeavons, M26C Fair winds to all
As Woody suggests, you need to treat the power and data completely separately.
For the lights I suggest a marine multi-pin screw lock connector; you've probably got at least one 2-pin for the existing connections. These connectors are available up to 4-pin (and more I think). They have one thick pin you can use as the common negative, so a 4-pin provides for 3 circuits. You've only currently got 2 circuits, but you might want to add another in future (e.g. anchor light or deck light) so get a connector that provides for expansion.
Getting a good connector for the wind data might be more tricky. The instruments send a fairly high-frequency signal which can be disrupted by inappropriate connectors. I once tried installing a Raymarine version using a multi-pin deck connector and it refused to operate properly, it wouldn't even calibrate.
If I was trying again I'd probably use one of these: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/152003634379.
They are rather more difficult to assemble, and it helps to get the correct crimp tool, but they work very well if done properly. I've used one to connect a rear view camera on my trailer, and it carries the video through a pair of pins with no obvious degradation.
As a general rule, avoid screw connector blocks, and use crimp terminals where possible. If you haven't got a crimp kit it's an essential investment!
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
I'm not expert on electrics but I read about and successfully installed opposite direction diodes for my tricolor and steaming so that a two way switch on strum enter panel can select either light on the basis that one should never error have both switched on. This saved me running separate electrics through the boat and I could use same 2 pin deck connector. Diodes all encased and sealed up in mast base.
I don't have windex ..not sure the value unless fitting wind controlled autopilot and unlikely to work on rotating mast. I do however have mast head aerial led through design know gland and no connector along g top of mirror and behind liner to radio behind stepladder. This gland can be eased to allow extra cable to pull out for trailing or even full removal for canal trips. I have retained my stern aerial for then and for spare.
Roly
Roly
Thanks for all the replies, all really appreciated.
Woody, as regards the number of wires attaching to the mast head sensor, this is a section from another forum regarding this particular NASA Wind Indicator:
"If you have lost both wind speed and wind direction then the most likely cause is loss of power to the mast head unit. You need to make five connections to get the unit to work. Four coloured wires and the screen drain wire need to be connected.
So I assume all the coloured wires should be connected for the system to work as it should?
Rick, have you got a link for a crimping tool suitable for the connector you gave me the link for? This sort of connector was the type used previously but the very thin terminals weren't well attached at all. Also, as regards the 4-pin screw lock connector, should the wires attached to the terminals be soldered? Only I'm not brilliant at soldering, and I was hoping I could crimp them on or use some sort of non-solder solution. This I guess is what you have in mind: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-12-WD19-Plug-Socket-Connector-Boat-Deck-Camp...
Roly, thanks for your post but I'm a bit confused about the diodes solution, and would appreciate more detail on how they work etc. I think you might have "predictive text" issues with the rest of your post too! Unless it's all that good Devon beer you've had this last week :)
Hi John
I don't know a specific crimping tool, I have a basic universal crimper which is just about OK, plus some persuasion with a small pair of pliers! I ran a bit of solder into the joints as well to be sure.
I'm not too sure about that multi-pin you refer to on eBay, the one I'm thinking of is https://marinestore.co.uk/Waterproof_Plug_And_Socket___Plastic_Cap___2_ ...
These have all-brass screw connectors so there's no rusting, and a cap for the socket to keep it dry when the plug (i.e. mast) is removed. They're available from several places, but if you're browsing around be aware that there are two types, 3A and 7A. They look the same in the pictures, but the 7A are physically much bigger and you don't need anything that size.
The diode trick allows you to have two wires to which you apply 12V in either polarity. In one polarity the diodes route the current through one light, in reverse polarity the current goes to the other one. It's useful if running an extra cable would be difficult, but if you're re-doing wiring anyway it's easier simply to add enough wires, and keep the switching simple.
(Deciphering Roly's auto-corrected postings is always entertaining!)
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
Hello All,
http://www.screwfix.com/p/ratchet-crimping-tool-1-0-10mm/96561 Gets you a suitable crimping tool for all crimps I have used less the battery connections were I am lucky to have access to an Hydraulic crimper.
I agree with all the comments above and the replies to my previous comment other than the Diode trick. Generally all those I have viewed on the internet will work with standard filament lights however the more modern and economical LED lights can use the same idea but require a smaller diode. A 50V 1A is suitable for Nav lights however a more suitable for one may be required for other lighting depending on what is installed so I would check your light manufacturers data sheets to calculate the ideal requirement.
I hope this helps those who need to think about things
In the mean time happy New Year to all and fair winds
Woody DB
Jack Jeavons, M26C Fair winds to all