I am about to replace my bow cleats as they aren't big enough for my mooring strops and, to be honest they look too small for a permanent swinging mooring.
I've found an excellent site (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat projects) to guide me that seems both highly expert but also DIY friendly.
What I need help with is Mac 26M specific info.
I understand that access under the deck, for removal and refitting, is reasonable; with a strong light and one long arm.
I'd like to know the composition of the deck AT the bow cleat area.
I'm guessing, from the Mac site, that there is a core of balsa or foam between two layers of GRP BUT this core is probably absent around the cleat site.
Is this correct? What is the gap size? eg for bolt lengths.
The plan is, I think, to drill out new oversized holes for the new cleat fixings and countersink them to avoid splitting.
Any coring should then be removed with a dremel tool. Then, having taped up the underside holes, I fill the void with dilute epoxy to soak into the insides. Then suck out this dilute epoxy and replace with fresh epoxy just thick enough to allow any bubbles to escape (with help).
I should also fill the old cleat holes. This can be done by countersinking the hole and fitting an appropriate machine screw using a cone of butyl tape for sealing.
When cured I can then drill out appropriate sized holes, for the fixings.
The cleat can then be fitted using Butyl tape for sealing, both the cleat to the deck AND the fixings through the cleat.
Below deck, a suitably large backing plate should be manufactured to spread the load - not sure if this should be ply, GRP or metal? Then large washers before the lock nuts. I guess sealing on the inside is just as important to avoid core contamination. Edit - apparently internal sealing is a definite NO-NO which makes sense when you think about it; a) it's already sealed, and b) if the external seal fails who need to know about it, and c) in case of external failure only, the water is trapped, unbeknown to you, in amongst the core which is not good.
I know I'm just parrotting what I've read but it helps me to understand it and also to run it past you guys in a Mac context.
What do you think? Has anyone done this? Any tips?
Many thanks as always!
ps if you think I'm being overly concerned about this, try reading - http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/mooring prep
MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit - Suzuki DF50
They are a bit small, aren't they. I just purchased some narrower gauge warp of sufficient breaking strain to cope. That seemed easier and cheaper than replacing the cleats.
While on a bare boat charter last year in the Whit Sundays, Australia in a 45 footer, I found the fixed mooring strops on some moorings buoys too big for the cleats so dug out some strong rope from a lazarette and used that to link the boat to the strop. It was a damned sight easier than fighting what looked and felt like lead lined horses collars.
Good Luck with it all.
Haha, it's funny you should mention such a practical solution Simon, I just had dinner with my good lady and she suggested that I consider linking my "oversized" strops to my "undersized" cleats with a carabiner (could be a d-ring).
I'm thinking, ok, why not? I guess someone will tell me:)
MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit - Suzuki DF50
Be aware
many carabiner,s are made of aluminium composite to reduce weight thus will soon rot in a salty environment.
in addition all carabiners will move with sea / water rise and fall, wind etc which I am sure I don't need to tell you. Point to note is metal against metal rubs and causes weak spots. Movement of metal on deck surfaces mark and wear surfaces quickly and so I would as a sailor and climber advise strongly against using carabiners on a mooring line.
A better option would be a short dilemma rope attached to your cleat to make a ring utilizing slip knots which you could tie the oversized mooring line to either threading through the ring or a bow line on the bite.
The ring could also be used as a pulley point helping in raising a difficult anchor an the like.
A bad day sailing is better than a good day at work so give it a try and let us all know how you get on.
safe winds
David Wood
Woody DB
Jack Jeavons, M26C Fair winds to all
Thanks David, there's certainly a lot to think about.
MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit - Suzuki DF50