I have a 20w flexible panel on the hatch cover which has a long enough lead to allow for the cover sliding open. In 3 years the lead has not failed and this keeps my battery topped up just fine as I have no access to mains power
Ok, well I passed my Day Skipper which is great so now I have no excuse not to pick up my new Mac and start sailing.
One of the first things I want to do before putting her in the water is, as I'm going to be on a mooring, is to install the Solar panel and associated kit.
I like Colin's idea of having it on the sliding cover so I'd appreciate a few tips on the install, eg:
1. Would you glue it or screw/bolt it on?
2. Where to run the cabling?
3. Etc etc...
Many thanks Guys, look out for pics and stories to come soon:)
—
MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit - Suzuki DF50
Gentlemen having read the above I can agree that a solar panel will only trickle charge the batteries for a time period were light is available. A large enough size will sufficiently keep the batteries topped up to the last charge state and rarely will it recharge the batteries unless the batteries are in a good state (almost new) and given lots of time to recharge.
The important note is that the solar panel should be fed through a regulator. This will ensure maximum charge available is stabalized and supplied to the battery(ies). More importantly it will prevent reverse flow of current that would otherwise discharge the batteries when it's dark and give a means to prevent over charge.
should anyone read Practical Boat owner they have done tests and recommendations if you look through there back catalogue.
Fair winds and happy sailing remembering that a bad day sailing is better than a good day at work.
Having read all this and also having had a long chat with a salesman at the Southampton Boat Show last year I am going to stick to my battery booster (from c£50.00 upwards).
Enjoy your Mac, Mike. You have wonderful sailing waters and you can also go where other yachts can't such as up the Helford River on a rising tide and a shopping trip to Truro.
Hi probably a bit late for you, my boat is on a swing mooring and used to suffer with flat batteries, i installed a 914 wind generator, i have 2 x 100 aph which powers a fridge TVs webasto heater along with multiple phone and tablet chargers. I don't have any more problems. fairly straight forward to install bought from force 4
Ok, well, having taken delivery of "Sky's the Limit" I've been poking around below decks to get familiar before launching her for the first time.
Of most interest is the electrical system and how I should connect my new solar setup.
The solar rig consists of a semi-flexible 50w mono panel going into a Landstar LS1024 PWM controller.
The existing boat setup consists of two Yuasa Marine 12v 80Ah 450A batteries and one Powerline 12v 88A battery.
These batteries are charged by a Sterling Pro Charge Ultra (PCU) 30A charge controller. This has three DC outputs, one of which charges the 88Ah battery (the Starter) with the other two connected to the two 80Ah batteries (the House batteries) which are linked in parallel.
There is a main Engine on/off power switch plus the emergency option of bridging the House batteries to the Starter should the need arise.
In addition, the alternator on the Suzuki DF50 outboard is connected into the system at the Engine "power on" switch.
Some questions spring to mind:
1. Since the outboard's alternator is connected to the Engine's starter supply (presumably this doubles as charging and starting) does this mean that it only charges the single Starter battery? How would I tell?
2. Where should I connect my solar panel controller's output? I'm concerned that the two House batteries get charged along with the Starter.
Note - The solar controller, like the mains powered PCU is configured to monitor the charged battery's condition and charge accordingly. Since it only has one output it obviously can't cater for the differing conditions of the House and Starter battery banks.
I had hoped that the PCU may have some facility to accept a 12v DC input (eg my panel's controller) and so allow it's charging output to be distributed reasonably by the PCU. This isn't the case unfortunately.
In the absence of any brainwaves, it looks like I'll have to invest in a dual output solar controller.
Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated!
—
MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit - Suzuki DF50
Thanks Rick.
Just found this recently updated review of this market - http://www.pbo.co.uk/expert-advice/solar-panels-everything-you-need-to-k...
MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit - Suzuki DF50
I have a 20w flexible panel on the hatch cover which has a long enough lead to allow for the cover sliding open. In 3 years the lead has not failed and this keeps my battery topped up just fine as I have no access to mains power
Many thanks Colin, that sounds a good idea, especially since one doesn't walk on the hatch cover; unlike the for'ard hatch.
Also a shorter cable run.
Im just about to order the various bits of kit, you don't happen to remember how long your cable was do you?
MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit - Suzuki DF50
Ok, well I passed my Day Skipper which is great so now I have no excuse not to pick up my new Mac and start sailing.
One of the first things I want to do before putting her in the water is, as I'm going to be on a mooring, is to install the Solar panel and associated kit.
I like Colin's idea of having it on the sliding cover so I'd appreciate a few tips on the install, eg:
1. Would you glue it or screw/bolt it on?
2. Where to run the cabling?
3. Etc etc...
Many thanks Guys, look out for pics and stories to come soon:)
MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit - Suzuki DF50
Gentlemen having read the above I can agree that a solar panel will only trickle charge the batteries for a time period were light is available. A large enough size will sufficiently keep the batteries topped up to the last charge state and rarely will it recharge the batteries unless the batteries are in a good state (almost new) and given lots of time to recharge.
The important note is that the solar panel should be fed through a regulator. This will ensure maximum charge available is stabalized and supplied to the battery(ies). More importantly it will prevent reverse flow of current that would otherwise discharge the batteries when it's dark and give a means to prevent over charge.
should anyone read Practical Boat owner they have done tests and recommendations if you look through there back catalogue.
Fair winds and happy sailing remembering that a bad day sailing is better than a good day at work.
Woody DB
Jack Jeavons, M26C Fair winds to all
Having read all this and also having had a long chat with a salesman at the Southampton Boat Show last year I am going to stick to my battery booster (from c£50.00 upwards).
Enjoy your Mac, Mike. You have wonderful sailing waters and you can also go where other yachts can't such as up the Helford River on a rising tide and a shopping trip to Truro.
Do avoid the King Harry Ferry though.
Simon A
Hi probably a bit late for you, my boat is on a swing mooring and used to suffer with flat batteries, i installed a 914 wind generator, i have 2 x 100 aph which powers a fridge TVs webasto heater along with multiple phone and tablet chargers. I don't have any more problems. fairly straight forward to install bought from force 4
regards Jonathan
20160703_125624 [85705].jpg
Thanks Guys,
btw I already learnt about dodging the KHF whilst doing my day skipper. He definitely seemed like he was out to get me, it was cat & mouse:)
MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit - Suzuki DF50
Ok, well, having taken delivery of "Sky's the Limit" I've been poking around below decks to get familiar before launching her for the first time.
Of most interest is the electrical system and how I should connect my new solar setup.
The solar rig consists of a semi-flexible 50w mono panel going into a Landstar LS1024 PWM controller.
The existing boat setup consists of two Yuasa Marine 12v 80Ah 450A batteries and one Powerline 12v 88A battery.
These batteries are charged by a Sterling Pro Charge Ultra (PCU) 30A charge controller. This has three DC outputs, one of which charges the 88Ah battery (the Starter) with the other two connected to the two 80Ah batteries (the House batteries) which are linked in parallel.
There is a main Engine on/off power switch plus the emergency option of bridging the House batteries to the Starter should the need arise.
In addition, the alternator on the Suzuki DF50 outboard is connected into the system at the Engine "power on" switch.
Some questions spring to mind:
1. Since the outboard's alternator is connected to the Engine's starter supply (presumably this doubles as charging and starting) does this mean that it only charges the single Starter battery? How would I tell?
2. Where should I connect my solar panel controller's output? I'm concerned that the two House batteries get charged along with the Starter.
Note - The solar controller, like the mains powered PCU is configured to monitor the charged battery's condition and charge accordingly. Since it only has one output it obviously can't cater for the differing conditions of the House and Starter battery banks.
I had hoped that the PCU may have some facility to accept a 12v DC input (eg my panel's controller) and so allow it's charging output to be distributed reasonably by the PCU. This isn't the case unfortunately.
In the absence of any brainwaves, it looks like I'll have to invest in a dual output solar controller.
Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated!
MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit - Suzuki DF50
Pages