Ok, last night at home before my Day Skipper practical. Have just finished all my theory revision so, naturally, my thoughts turn to picking up my new Mac following the completion of Day Skipper.
What immediately struck me was a couple of issues I hadn't considered since I had been planning to trailer the boat each time I sailed.
The two issues are both related to the outboard:
1. Security. What should I do to safeguard against theft apart from security marking and insurance? and,
2. How do I go about flushing, bearing in mind the boat stays in the water?
Any tips would be much appreciated!
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MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit - Suzuki DF50
As regards security, a good tip I heard from the Hampshire Police is to remove the engine cover when not in use, and replace it with a waterproof material sack of some sort (I think the police actually provided some of these). This is because thieves don't steal outboards without a proper engine cover apparently.
As regards flushing, unless you can get a steady water supply, tilt the engine up, fit a flush muff, and run up the engine with sweet water, it really doesn't seem feasible while on a mooring. Not sure whether an engine should be run tilted right up anyway. But as long as it's done reasonably regularly every few months when out of the water, it shouldn't suffer too much.
Thanks John, cool tip re the engine cover, that so makes sense.
The flushing thing bothers me though. I think prompt flushing is probably important as surely corrosion occurs continually and the purpose of flushing is presumably to remove the corrosive salt solution before the damage is done, NOT the corrosion itself, which is presumably irreversible.
Since I don't plan to use the water tank(s) for drinking etc, I may use them for flushing.
I guess it could be possible to lower the prop/water intake into one of those plastic gardening bins (that I've seen used to protect props) and then fill this with fresh water, hosed from said tank.
Or even feed the flushing muffs direct from the tank.
I guess, since Macs weren't really designed for moorings, this isn't a regular issue.
Having said that, Rib owners must face similar challenges.
MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit - Suzuki DF50
I was once told by a marine engineer that the problem of outboard corrosion results from salt residue exposed to air when the engine is removed from the water. Therefore, leaving the engine in the water for the summer should not do it any harm.
If this is true, then the worst thing is to tilt the engine up when leaving the boat - best to just leave the leg in the water.
I've never tried to corroborate this idea, so I don't know if it's true or just a pet theory!
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
Also re. theft - removing an outboard from a Mac is very hard. At least two of the bolts go through into the interior, so removing them requires one person to get inside the boat and down to the end of the aft berth, locate the nuts behind the trim, and remove them while someone else holds a spanner on the heads outside.
In the cases I've head of where Mac engines have been stolen, the thieves have used an angle grinder to cut off the bolt heads. Is anyone going to try that on the water, as well as lift off over 100kg of motor?
My insurance policy specifies that an outboard should be fitted with an ant-theft lock. When I explain the permanence of the mounting bolts the broker waives that requirement. The bolts are more secure!
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
I spoke to a friend of mine previously on the Police marine section about outboards and security of the boat.
My outboard has a locking bolt (shame I don't have a key for it). But that won't stop the serious thieves, they will even use a chain saw and just cut the transom away with the engine.
Stolen outboards fall into two groups, the little ones that are light enough to carry away easily and the really big expensive ones that are valuable enough to be worth the considerable effort to remove them, often from powerboats while ashore. It is rare for heavy outboards to be stolen from boats afloat. Based on that he was of the opinion that a 50HP wasn't really at much risk (especially mine as it's also old). One bit of advice was to keep an old ratty engine cover to conceal a nice new outboard.
The risk of theft of the boat in toto while afloat is similarly not too great as there are usually much higher value boats that are easier to take. Swinging moorings appear to be much safer than marinas for obvious reasons of ease of access.
The biggest risk is to the marine electronics. This is often the target so always take all the gadgets off the boat with you if you possibly can or at least stow them away in a concealed water tight box. My boat was broken in to, presumably looking for stuff that wasn't on board, they took nothing except one full fuel tank from the cockpit (and another trailer with £3K of other stuff).
Not sure if I should put a sign that says 'no electronics left aboard overnight' or one that says 'venomous snakes in transit'.
But if you want to get a good nights sleep and not have to worry consider the following: Datatagging of boat, outboard and trailer, A Geofenced GPS/GSM alarm system, record all serial numbers, photograph everything (so useful if it comes to an insurance claim). UV postcode marker all the loose electronics.
Dave.
Dave Newton Sailbadthesinner
The sacrificial anodes on the engine should mean that while the corrosion will happen it all attacks the anode not your expensive engine.
The amount of corrosion will depend on the supply of water, salt and oxygen. Keeping the engine in the water will not help, there is plenty of oxygen in the water, just ask a fish! Lifting it will drain most of the salt and water so limit the problem.
The anodes in the engine are supposed to be replaced when the engine is serviced but frequently aren't. Always insist they are done unless they are in excellent condition and have the old ones returned to you as evidence or photographs taken. Skimping on anodes is a very false economy.
Nothing will prevent the corrosion from a bad electrical system or shore supply without galvanic isolation. That can eat your anodes in hours and even dissolve an entire outboard leg in a few weeks.
Galvanic Engine Damage
Dave Newton Sailbadthesinner
Thanks Guys, that's excellent as ever!
I've already advised the insurance company of serial numbers etc and have bought security markers for use when I take delivery.
Will implement your other suggestions ASAP.
Just read a long thread on The Hull Truth - http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/533741-flushing-outboard-but-m... - giving various viewpoints. Interestingly I don't recall mention of anodes although I may have missed it.
I guess my approach will be to make sure my anodes are in good nick and flush as best I can.
Thanks again!
MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit - Suzuki DF50
In respect of outboard theft: many years ago I had my outboard stolen from the boat we had at the time (an Evolution 19) whilst the boat was moored in the marina. The thieves used an inflatable to drift into the marina under cover of darkness and used hand-pumped hydraulic cutters (similar to what the rescue services use) to simply cut the outboard from the transom. No noise, no fuss, then drift on to the next victim and then away. I was lucky that several weeks later (after the insurance had coughed up) the police recovered a large amount of stolen goods from a lockup garage about two miles away, and my outboard was returned intact. NO outboard is safe if the thieves are determined, you have to visibly demonstrate that yours will be more difficult to remove than the next fellow's.
Flushing. It is vitally important to keep the internal cooling passages/ waterpump impellor clear of all possible obstruction, sludge, salt crystalisation and suchlike. On my Yamaha 50 I have inserted a hose connection that I created from 1/2" garden hose and click-fittings which allows me to flush direct the entire system with tapwater whilst the engine is running. A muff covering the inlet will do the same job, but not quite so efficiently. Some time ago I found out to my cost how essential this is! For various lazy reasons I had omitted to flush the engine after use, and some weeks later I went out, got beyond the marina entrance when the engine overheated and stalled. I managed to secure the services of another passing craft who towed me to an adjacent pontoon, where I was able to fiddle about and clear an obstructions from both the inlet (weed and plastic bag) and sludge from the obstructed tell-tale (this had been disturbed from inside the cooling channels). Important lesson: do NOT skip the flushing sequence after EVERY trip! Prevention is better than cure!
Navigation is a series of plots. In fog the plot thickens...
Many thanks Nick!
MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit - Suzuki DF50
Not sure what outboard you have, on my Yamaha there is a hose attachment (yellow arrow in the picture) that i connect a hose to every time we use the engine and flush it out. it takes a standard garden hose fitting. i did have a problem with a blocked tell tale that was easily solved by making a 6" length of od using the inside of electrical cable (2.5mm twin and earth) and then filing the end down to ensue it was round and smooth and not going to puncture any rubber pipe. i use this if i see the tell tale flow rate drop off, but now it's clear and regularly flushed it only needs it a couple of times a season
Outboard.jpg
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