Submitted by mike.floutier on
Ok, I just took delivery of my my Suzuki DF2.5hp outboard for my tender.
As usual I devoured the manual but the one thing that seems a bit odd is the flushing bit.
After every use it tells you to remove the prop and install the outboard in a 200 litre water butt and run it for 5 mins, then reattach the prop and dry it nicely.
I totally understand the need to flush the salt but thought there was a simpler procedure (not involving a water butt)
Any suggestions?
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MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit - Suzuki DF50
9 Comments
Is there a connection for a
Submitted by simon.armitage on
Is there a connection for a hose so you can flush water through it while running the motor?
Thanks Simon, that's what I
Submitted by mike.floutier on
Thanks Simon, that's what I was hoping for but unfortunately the cooling water inlet is actual a large square grill and nowhere near the outflow hole.
MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit - Suzuki DF50
Submitted by dave.newton on
Hi Mike,
Most outboard manufacturers say you should remove the prop for flushing. It's just them covering themselves for H&S. They have to allow for the idiots who don't understand that a revolving prop is something to keep your distance from. I've never known anyone, including Honda's own servicing instructors, who actually do this.
That said, taking the prop off once in a while, and cleaning the splines will make a huge difference to how easy it is when you do need to change it. I mean to do it each winter (but I confess I don't always).
Putting a hose against the outlet and back flushing a bit is a useful trick to help remove any weed. Flushing muffs and a hose is often easier than the barrel of water.
Dave.
Dave Newton Sailbadthesinner
Thanks Dave, I've heard of
Submitted by mike.floutier on
Thanks Dave, I've heard of muffs, how do they work, does this get around the issue of the inlet orifice not accepting a hose?
MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit - Suzuki DF50
Hi Mike
Submitted by rick.jones on
Hi Mike
Flush muffs look a bit like a pair of headphones, the "ear" bits are just rubber pads. On one side the pad has a hole in the middle and a hose adaptor on the outside. You just clip the muffs round the engine leg so that the wet pad covers a water inlet. Then connect a hose and switch on. This provides enough water for the engine to take in and keep cool.
An invaluable item, much easier than screwing a hose fitting into the engine even if it has one. You'll need them for flushing your 50hp too.
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
Thanks Rick that's great!
Submitted by mike.floutier on
Thanks Rick that's great!
Not sure if the muff will work on the DF2.5 as the down pipe, whatever it's called, is so small, hard to see it sealing.
But worth a try, and my boat, when I pick it up, apparently has muffs so lots of practice will ensue I'm sure.
MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit - Suzuki DF50
Submitted by dave.newton on
Muffs don't have to be a good seal, as long as there is plenty of water around the inlet the engine impeller will suck it up. Providing there is water coming out of the tell tale then all is well. It really won't take much to keep a 2.5 cool.
You may find that a smaller pair of muffs fit better on the small outboard leg than the ones that you get with the 50. I actually like having a 'hoselock' fitting on the engine if there is provision to screw one on. Just plug the hose on and you're done.
I can't stress enough the importance of flushing salt out of engine and trailer hubs as soon as possible after they come out of the water, makes a big difference to corrosion issues.
Dave.
Dave Newton Sailbadthesinner
Thanks Dave, great sense as
Submitted by mike.floutier on
Thanks Dave, great sense as always!
Sorry for delay replying, I've been away at a men's weekend in the Salisbury jungles; no phone signal, no wifi, 12v electrics and wood burning stoves for the HW and showers. Good practice for Mac events I guess.
By the way do you have any tips for flushing the trailer bits?
MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit - Suzuki DF50
Submitted by dave.newton on
Flush as soon as possible after pulling out of salt water. Sealed bearings aren't completely watertight they are pre-packed with grease and the seal will keep the grease in but not completely keep water out. Over time they will fail the only test is to jack up and feel the bearings run smoothly or change them periodically as a precaution. taper bearings can at least be cleaned, re-packed with grease and inspected but need attention much more often. Don't park the trailer for long periods with the handbrake engaged it will lock up. Use wheel chokes if needed. Let the brakes/bearings cool before you plunge them into water it's not good for brake linings and it may cause water to be drawn into the bearings.
Most hubs either have a hole or bung in the back plate that you can put a hose against. You can get flushing kits with the fittings/pipe to allow connecting the hubs together and to a common hoselock fitting.
I plan to also attach a water tank to hold a reserve 20 litres of water so I can always flush the trailer when I take it out after launching (theres seldom a convenient hose).
Dave
Dave Newton Sailbadthesinner