A couple of other design constraints:
1. When the mast is down, as with canal cruising, but where there is the chance of some sailing, so you don't want to leave the mast behind, it is a good idea to make the height of the sprayhood low enough that it can still be raised even when the mast is secured in its down position with one end on the pulpit and the other end supported on the pole plugged into the steering column. That way you can have some protection from rain with the mast down.
2. If you are still thinking about a removable stiff perspex window, my advice is, don't. I have a flexible plastic window which is still clear after many years use and annual wash in the washing machine. If the perspex has to be removed before lowering the hood, that makes the job longer and more fiddly, and then you have to find somewhere to put the window that you have just removed.
3. Remember that the main hatch still has to open and close with the hood in both open and closed positions.
Hi Bjorn
Your drawing is BRILLIANT !!!
Remember that shadow is IMPORTANT (at least arrond here :) thats why I have a Bimini and a boom tent and not yet a sprayhood...
So a cover for the perspex window is important...
I am testing a mod that consists of moving the useless tracks from the front of the cockpit rails to the rear.
I that position it is possible to hold your "idea" to a track car...
The track on that position can hold the jib car, a shore line "T", a mainsheet track over the companion way, AND YOUR SPRAYHOOD.
Every thing easily removable...
Jose
PS: I am pretty sure that everybody agrees tha the jib track at the factory position is USELESS...
PS: I am pretty sure that everybody agrees tha the jib track at the factory position is USELESS...
Well, not if you have a jib! You don't need them with a genoa of course, but flying a jib I sometimes have the cars toward the forward end of the standard tracks.
Of course there's nothing wrong with adding extra track to the aft of the existing ones!
—
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
Rick
You are right
But I fly mi jib with a self taking system. Very simple, but very effective.
I will try to publish it...
A longer track over the entire companion way door is a good idea !
Jose
Hi Guys
The height would allow for a stowed mast. No worries. I also like the idea of having a safety rollbar should the forstay ever go.. ours very nearly did once!!
The Jib tracks are too far out of the way for my plan. If the window section rises up from the hatch track then it is out of the way enough to not need taking down. Corners can then be attached to the edge going out to somewhere complete with see-thru panel as usual.
It looks a bit scary in the sketch, and there would be a gap maybe when hatch fully open.. (problem?) but I think the principle is promising.
The thing I like about it is that it can be used just like this, or with the rest of the enclosure. Across the top... joining strip to a bimini? Ok, gotta go for a while...
—
In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice; In practice, there is.
Interesting concept. Here's a few thoughts to chuck around ...
I don't think it's worth bothering about its properties as a "safety rollbar". If the mast were to come crashing down it would just demolish that frame unless it were absurdly over-engineered. In which case it would probably crack the deck instead - even more expense (don't think you'd want any more of that Bjorn ;). The mast would probably come down to the side anyway.
Jose was talking about moving the jib tracks back so as to be alongside the hatch (he doesn't use them for the jib). Or if you want to keep the jib tracks, add more tracking. Possible, but if adding new it's a further expense. OTOH it could simplify a quick-release mechanism.
Is your idea that this windscreen folds flat in place, or that you take it off when not wanted? I don't think I'd want it as a semi-permanent fixture.
I have various lines that run over the hatch and would need to run under the screen. I think it would work best if the bottom edge were fabric, thus forming a flexible semi-seal agains the hatch top, and allowing lines to run under it. Maybe this could be arranged so as to prevent a gap with the hatch fully forward?
Windscreen wipers? (!)
Jose - I'm very interested in your self-tacking jib. I've thought about doing that but couldn't work out how!
—
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
A slightly better sketch.I am thinking semi permanent fixture.. probly with a brush strip running along the bottom edge.I think the hatch track is going to be pretty strong as it is well attached over a large area. The triangulated design of this would also be intrinsically robust, a few useful handles lending massive support for something that could be fairly lightweight. Should the mast come down, under sail it would not be a problem. My only worry is when motoring through a lumpy sea... should the fore stay go then the hinge is set up for the mast to crash straight down on the helm. It will cause horrid damage with or without the bars, I just reckon that with this in place one has a chance of keeping ones skull intact.I intend to add several more lines, though plan to have them down the side of the com' hatch. As my set up is still very basic I am open to words of experience. I think I'll mock something up to get a feel of shape and look. I also don't want to make this a work of art so to speak.. the engineering needs to be as simple as possible, especially if I end up making a few!
Keep the thoughts coming!
Cheers
—
In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice; In practice, there is.
There's another small fly in the ointment, at least as far as I'm concerned. My hatch lock consist of two eyebolts, one on the rail and one on the hatch, that come together when the hatch is closed - see pic.
Apart from getting rid of that ugly hasp and staple, it means I can lock the hatch closed while sailing by putting a clip-shackle through, as well as lock it with a padlock when leaving the boat.
I suspect these might foul up on your steel frame?
—
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
A couple of other design constraints:
1. When the mast is down, as with canal cruising, but where there is the chance of some sailing, so you don't want to leave the mast behind, it is a good idea to make the height of the sprayhood low enough that it can still be raised even when the mast is secured in its down position with one end on the pulpit and the other end supported on the pole plugged into the steering column. That way you can have some protection from rain with the mast down.
2. If you are still thinking about a removable stiff perspex window, my advice is, don't. I have a flexible plastic window which is still clear after many years use and annual wash in the washing machine. If the perspex has to be removed before lowering the hood, that makes the job longer and more fiddly, and then you have to find somewhere to put the window that you have just removed.
3. Remember that the main hatch still has to open and close with the hood in both open and closed positions.
Jon, Danser
Hi Bjorn
Your drawing is BRILLIANT !!!
Remember that shadow is IMPORTANT (at least arrond here :) thats why I have a Bimini and a boom tent and not yet a sprayhood...
So a cover for the perspex window is important...
I am testing a mod that consists of moving the useless tracks from the front of the cockpit rails to the rear.
I that position it is possible to hold your "idea" to a track car...
The track on that position can hold the jib car, a shore line "T", a mainsheet track over the companion way, AND YOUR SPRAYHOOD.
Every thing easily removable...
Jose
PS: I am pretty sure that everybody agrees tha the jib track at the factory position is USELESS...
Cheers
Jose
http://arianeoveleiro.blogspot.com
Well, not if you have a jib! You don't need them with a genoa of course, but flying a jib I sometimes have the cars toward the forward end of the standard tracks.
Of course there's nothing wrong with adding extra track to the aft of the existing ones!
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
Rick
You are right
But I fly mi jib with a self taking system. Very simple, but very effective.
I will try to publish it...
A longer track over the entire companion way door is a good idea !
Jose
Cheers
Jose
http://arianeoveleiro.blogspot.com
Hi Guys
The height would allow for a stowed mast. No worries. I also like the idea of having a safety rollbar should the forstay ever go.. ours very nearly did once!!
The Jib tracks are too far out of the way for my plan. If the window section rises up from the hatch track then it is out of the way enough to not need taking down. Corners can then be attached to the edge going out to somewhere complete with see-thru panel as usual.
It looks a bit scary in the sketch, and there would be a gap maybe when hatch fully open.. (problem?) but I think the principle is promising.
The thing I like about it is that it can be used just like this, or with the rest of the enclosure. Across the top... joining strip to a bimini? Ok, gotta go for a while...
In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice; In practice, there is.
Interesting concept. Here's a few thoughts to chuck around ...
I don't think it's worth bothering about its properties as a "safety rollbar". If the mast were to come crashing down it would just demolish that frame unless it were absurdly over-engineered. In which case it would probably crack the deck instead - even more expense (don't think you'd want any more of that Bjorn ;). The mast would probably come down to the side anyway.
Jose was talking about moving the jib tracks back so as to be alongside the hatch (he doesn't use them for the jib). Or if you want to keep the jib tracks, add more tracking. Possible, but if adding new it's a further expense. OTOH it could simplify a quick-release mechanism.
Is your idea that this windscreen folds flat in place, or that you take it off when not wanted? I don't think I'd want it as a semi-permanent fixture.
I have various lines that run over the hatch and would need to run under the screen. I think it would work best if the bottom edge were fabric, thus forming a flexible semi-seal agains the hatch top, and allowing lines to run under it. Maybe this could be arranged so as to prevent a gap with the hatch fully forward?
Windscreen wipers? (!)
Jose - I'm very interested in your self-tacking jib. I've thought about doing that but couldn't work out how!
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
A slightly better sketch.I am thinking semi permanent fixture.. probly with a brush strip running along the bottom edge.I think the hatch track is going to be pretty strong as it is well attached over a large area. The triangulated design of this would also be intrinsically robust, a few useful handles lending massive support for something that could be fairly lightweight. Should the mast come down, under sail it would not be a problem. My only worry is when motoring through a lumpy sea... should the fore stay go then the hinge is set up for the mast to crash straight down on the helm. It will cause horrid damage with or without the bars, I just reckon that with this in place one has a chance of keeping ones skull intact.I intend to add several more lines, though plan to have them down the side of the com' hatch. As my set up is still very basic I am open to words of experience. I think I'll mock something up to get a feel of shape and look. I also don't want to make this a work of art so to speak.. the engineering needs to be as simple as possible, especially if I end up making a few!
Keep the thoughts coming!
Cheers
In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice; In practice, there is.
Awkward thought... got to be able to step the mast easily.. That'll be tricky with a fixed screen. Hmmmm...
In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice; In practice, there is.
Don't want to find winch handles banging into supporting bars either...
In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice; In practice, there is.
There's another small fly in the ointment, at least as far as I'm concerned. My hatch lock consist of two eyebolts, one on the rail and one on the hatch, that come together when the hatch is closed - see pic.
Apart from getting rid of that ugly hasp and staple, it means I can lock the hatch closed while sailing by putting a clip-shackle through, as well as lock it with a padlock when leaving the boat.
I suspect these might foul up on your steel frame?
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
Pages