Here are a few photos of the Plastimo 406 roller furler I fitted to my 19. I've only been able to take pics of the lower end without the sail attached, but I hope it gives an idea of the system.
The main part of the furler is a tubular aluminium extrusion that fits round the forestay, which must be a minimum 4mm diameter. This means replacing the original, but you'd have to do this anyway because it needs to be shorter and with a different swaged bottom fitting.
Here are some photos of the lifting rudder mod I made to my 19. The original short rudders are retained, and they can be raised and lowered using a 6mm line. The pull-down part of the line runs down the inside of the rudder tubes.
See the notes on the individual photos (click a photo title to display it in a page complete with text - clicking a photo image pops up a slide-show but you don't see the descriptions).
Here are a variety of images sent in by Liz Healey on some of the mods made to Tenacity. The rudders on the 19 seem to be the main concern for most owners, mainly their size, effectiveness and how to raise and lower from the cockpit. If you study these pictures carefully you might see how it is done on Tenacity. Other mods include an instrument panel and an extension arm to the engine that allows rudders and engine to move in harmony.
Have decided to share this information, just fitted a Seldon GX 7.5 system to my Mac which I am pleased with, which comes as kit, I spliced the anti-torsion cable to the top swivel clamp, measured the luff spliced to the spool, fitted the 13.5 Meters of spliced sheet to the spool and twin cam cleats.
I've always found screw-pin shackles intensely irritating, the pins are fiddly to turn and awkward to tighten. I don't find a slotted shackle key a lot of help, and usually keep a bull-nose plier in my pocket. Even so it's not ideal.
I was thinking recently that it would be really handy to have a spinner, akin to a nut runner. It would be a similar tool, but with a slot in the end rather than a hex socket. No such thing seems to exist, but then I thought it shouldn't be too hard to make one. So I did - here's how.
I have found myself experimenting with the cruising chute set-up over the last year with mixed results but yesterday I managed an arrangement that I think is close to how it should be. I'm putting some pics up to see if anyone has an opinion. When I first used the 'chute I would simply run two lines from either side of the sail and let it billow ahead of the boat. Part of my reason for doing this was because the 'corners' of the sail were labelled in hand written form - port and starboard - not tack and clew.
These are photos of my mainsail rigging on my Mac 19. It includes the following features:
* A mast gate for inserting the sail slugs.
* Turning blocks with cam cleats at the mast base.
* A continuous loop halyard, enabling the sail to be hauled down.
I made the mast gate by first cutting and drilling the aluminium plate, then drilling and tapping the mast to match. After that I cut the piece out of the mast with a Dremel cutting disc (with a piece of cord tied through the hole so as not to loose it!). This piece was then screwed permanently to the plate.