Have decided to share this information, just fitted a Seldon GX 7.5 system to my Mac which I am pleased with, which comes as kit, I spliced the anti-torsion cable to the top swivel clamp, measured the luff spliced to the spool, fitted the 13.5 Meters of spliced sheet to the spool and twin cam cleats.
I've always found screw-pin shackles intensely irritating, the pins are fiddly to turn and awkward to tighten. I don't find a slotted shackle key a lot of help, and usually keep a bull-nose plier in my pocket. Even so it's not ideal.
I was thinking recently that it would be really handy to have a spinner, akin to a nut runner. It would be a similar tool, but with a slot in the end rather than a hex socket. No such thing seems to exist, but then I thought it shouldn't be too hard to make one. So I did - here's how.
I have found myself experimenting with the cruising chute set-up over the last year with mixed results but yesterday I managed an arrangement that I think is close to how it should be. I'm putting some pics up to see if anyone has an opinion. When I first used the 'chute I would simply run two lines from either side of the sail and let it billow ahead of the boat. Part of my reason for doing this was because the 'corners' of the sail were labelled in hand written form - port and starboard - not tack and clew.
These are photos of my mainsail rigging on my Mac 19. It includes the following features:
* A mast gate for inserting the sail slugs.
* Turning blocks with cam cleats at the mast base.
* A continuous loop halyard, enabling the sail to be hauled down.
I made the mast gate by first cutting and drilling the aluminium plate, then drilling and tapping the mast to match. After that I cut the piece out of the mast with a Dremel cutting disc (with a piece of cord tied through the hole so as not to loose it!). This piece was then screwed permanently to the plate.
I've recently invested in a wireless kill switch, it's a Scandinavian-made device called MOB+.
The receiver unit is wired into the kill switch, and you keep a wireless fob on your person. If you fall in, the receiver kills the engine. This gives the protection of a kill cord without needing to be physically attached. You can also manually stop the engine by pressing a button on the fob, which is handy when mooring up.
It's really worthwhile installing a brake flushing system on your trailer, so the brake drums can be flushed with fresh water after being dunked in the briny. Kits are readily available but somewhat pricey. The most widely used is supplied by Al-Ko, who are not noted for budget prices. Their single axle kit is over £40, and the tandem one about £50 (more from some retailers).