Tue, 02/06/2020 - 12:24am
I agree with Ricks comments - We have a digital electronic relay (Cirex-ct 120A) to ensure the batteries are charged properly and the starter battery is given priority. It also has a override switch so that both batteries can be used in parallel if needed to start the motor. A simple cheap solar panel controller costs about a £10 on ebay and works fine with our 15W flexible solar panel that keeps the batteries toped up. We also wired in a lighter socked with heavy duty wire which is useful for 12 v car accessories - vacuum, polisher and normally has a 2 way USB charger in place.
We have our main isolation switch placed on the end of the port side bunks under the rear end of the sink unit. The wiring is easily accessible from the hatch and with the sink unit in any position. I thought it was a standard fitting but perhaps not. Make sure that if you have a separate automatic bilge pump (we have but have never needed to use it) make sure its wired before the isolator switch if you want it to work when your not on board. No way would I use fuses other than resettable ones from choice on a boat as if the main fuse blows its going to be when you really need it.
A cheap digital LED volt meter with a push button switch set into the battery cover allows routine battery monitoring at the touch of a button. We also have a camping extension lead with RCD but only ever use it with a battery charger occasionally as we have never found the need for 240V on board. We also replaced all the lighting with led bulbs which massively reduces the battery current drain as well as producing a much better quality of lighting.
I think Rick has already mentioned that you need to use tinned copper wire not just copper in a marine environment as copper oxidises - goes black and leads to bad connections.
Hope this helps.
Mike C - Tarka 26M (for sale!)
Tue, 02/06/2020 - 10:19am
I think it would be a good idea if all you guys re-vamping you electrics to make wiring diagrams- so the next owner can figure it out !