For us amateurs, keep the foresail sheeted in as you go about until it starts to fill with wind on the opposite tack and then let fly that sheet and haul in on the other side. Not very nautical, I know, but simple.
It's worth remembering that the boat steering group is partly dependent on the relative sideways forces on the forestay and main sail. On overnight or large forestay can cause the bow to bear away and be reluctant to go into/through the wind. This sideways force will be greatest under strong winds. Maybe gaining speed off the wind with a relatively loose main and hence flatter boat then sheet in hard as you tack smartly . I hold jib sheets tight till bow has gone though wind and main transfered but then release and sheet in other side asap in order to avoid excessive large tack which wastes head way. Still sometimes difficult. In theory the mast rake can make a difference but in an M we doing have much control of that.
Roly
PS....I'm going to apologise now for any future typos. My predictive text keeps writing foreskin instead of forestay! I hope I have edited adequately.
Does anyone know where I can find the dimensions for the various headsails for a 26M, please?
Leigh Ross' helpful information about the fore triangle formula makes my current sail with a foot of 3.37 equivalent to 114% which seems an odd size?
I am trying to decide on a larger headsail for light winds and would like something that will roller furl as I often sail single handed. The idea would be to attach a second pair of sheets, one running inside and the other outside the shrouds, the former allowing to sheet in on a shortened sail and all done from the cockpit
To hold your course in strong winds requires spilling wind from the main (after reefing) I do this, depending on crew and practise by slackening off the traveller or letting a several feet of mainsheet out or both. Macs, at least my M try hard to head up into the wind in a blow and then carry on through (no good when surrounded by other boats) so it is a bit of a fight with the tiller to hold a straight line. It needs a cockpit drill,(skipper and crew working in tandem) some practice and do spill wind before your nerve goes. The more often you do it the longer you can hold your nerve as you learn the capabilities of your boat. When the boat steadies you can reset the trim until next time.
If not racing, then the engine is a useful ally, especially when tacking, as Macs can be quite wilful and refuse to tack, hence having to gybe to get around as mentioned by other members.
The tracker on the Round the Island Race showed Sowenna having to do this and resulted in many observers questioning my nautical skills. They probably need questioning anyway but not in this case.
If it works for you then I will certainly not argue!
Chris
For us amateurs, keep the foresail sheeted in as you go about until it starts to fill with wind on the opposite tack and then let fly that sheet and haul in on the other side. Not very nautical, I know, but simple.
It's worth remembering that the boat steering group is partly dependent on the relative sideways forces on the forestay and main sail. On overnight or large forestay can cause the bow to bear away and be reluctant to go into/through the wind. This sideways force will be greatest under strong winds. Maybe gaining speed off the wind with a relatively loose main and hence flatter boat then sheet in hard as you tack smartly . I hold jib sheets tight till bow has gone though wind and main transfered but then release and sheet in other side asap in order to avoid excessive large tack which wastes head way. Still sometimes difficult. In theory the mast rake can make a difference but in an M we doing have much control of that.
Roly
PS....I'm going to apologise now for any future typos. My predictive text keeps writing foreskin instead of forestay! I hope I have edited adequately.
Head sails for 26M
Does anyone know where I can find the dimensions for the various headsails for a 26M, please?
Leigh Ross' helpful information about the fore triangle formula makes my current sail with a foot of 3.37 equivalent to 114% which seems an odd size?
I am trying to decide on a larger headsail for light winds and would like something that will roller furl as I often sail single handed. The idea would be to attach a second pair of sheets, one running inside and the other outside the shrouds, the former allowing to sheet in on a shortened sail and all done from the cockpit
Anyone tried that?
Thanks,
Jon Fox
Hi Jon
I'm too lazy to look if the attached information is already on the site, hope it is of use. It covers a number of boats basic sail measurements.
Regards Jonathan
Sails by Boat
To hold your course in strong winds requires spilling wind from the main (after reefing) I do this, depending on crew and practise by slackening off the traveller or letting a several feet of mainsheet out or both. Macs, at least my M try hard to head up into the wind in a blow and then carry on through (no good when surrounded by other boats) so it is a bit of a fight with the tiller to hold a straight line. It needs a cockpit drill,(skipper and crew working in tandem) some practice and do spill wind before your nerve goes. The more often you do it the longer you can hold your nerve as you learn the capabilities of your boat. When the boat steadies you can reset the trim until next time.
If not racing, then the engine is a useful ally, especially when tacking, as Macs can be quite wilful and refuse to tack, hence having to gybe to get around as mentioned by other members.
The tracker on the Round the Island Race showed Sowenna having to do this and resulted in many observers questioning my nautical skills. They probably need questioning anyway but not in this case.
Simon Armitage
Sowenna 26M
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