I bought my jib from Judy at Hyde sails direct in the US. She suggested adding the luff pads. These help maintain sail shape when the jib is partially rolled in. Not sure of the theory but it is a nice sail.
When beating,in a keelboat or dinghy , you can point up a bit in a gust and ride the wind pointing higher and giving you more sea room to make a mark and compensate for some of the leeway so on my first sail in Sowenna on the Thames I tried this when wind gusted through some high rise flats and Sowenna continued to tack through the wind and came out the other side on te opposite tack. So we sat there stunned in the middle of the river wondering what had happened. I said I must have hardened up too much so we set off again and the same thing happened.We checked the dagger board was down and the rudders were working so tried again with the same result. People say a Mac is like a big dinghy but I have sailed many dinghies and keelboats this has never happened so off we set again with the intention of stopping Sowenna heading into the wind only to lose our nerve when she heeled over too much. How can we race or cruise in company if we can't steer a straight line? So by trial and error and by this time we were down by Dagenham having started off near North Woolwich, we started spilling wind from the mainsail. We tried using the traveller and that worked but we felt more comfortable loosing the main,then hardening up after the gust. A bit of practise ad co-ordination between helmsman and main sail handler makes perfect.
I have also experienced not being able to tack which can be embarrassing. Like Chris I ended up jybing, not being able to use the engine as I was racing. I put this down to the current being stronger than the wind, even though I was beating at 5 knots at the time. Even bearing away and building up some speed didn't work.
So have those of you with mor experience able to give a reason why Macs are hard to tack, sometimes.
ps You shouldn't allow a Mac to heel more than 20/25 degrees. The hull is not designed for it looses its bite or grip.
Mush respect for Roly for crossing the Solent in a storm.
I hope to see many of you at the BIGMAC when we can discuss such matters.
Your experiences and advice are most welcome I will experiment with the various techniques on my next gusty sail which might be next Wednesday when I’m taking my crew who has offered to help me sail up to Bradwell for the Big Mac out for the first time. I’ll try not to scare him too much !!
Ill also measure the jib to see what percentage it is - now I know how - thanks Leigh
Regarding difficulties with going about, we got advice from Colin Winter 2 years ago. He suggested backing the jib. That is leaving the jib untouched for the first part of the tack. The wind will fill the wrong side early on and push the bow round. Once the turn is secure the jib can be sheeted in on the correct side.
It has made all the difference to our confidence in tacking.
I’ve measured the foot of my jib it’s 3.25m which I guess’s makes my jib 110% this could be why plus my not sheeting the Main as per Roly’s advice the reason for the excessive heel.
Anyway, tomorrow I’m out with my prospective crew for the trip to Bradwell let’s hope we have a few gusts to practice with.
We were discussing this with Colin Winter a little while ago. He suggested backing the jib to help tack. This is simply leaving the jib sheet until the wind fills the opposite side. This brings the bow round smartly. When the tack is secure the jib can be sheeted in on the opposite side.
We've found it has been a great help. Does anyone else do this?
Yes, backwinding the job is a very handy technique, I do it all the time.
It's also the first step in a heave-to manoeuvre, which is a very useful thing to be able to do. It enables you to "park" your boat for a while in the middle of the water.
To heave-to, start to go about but leave the jib back-winded, then as the boom comes across, release the main sheet, leaving the main totally de-powered. At the same time put the helm hard over the opposite way (as if trying to reverse the tack), and lock it in place. The boat will now sit in a stable position, barely moving.
To continue sailing, put the helm straight, haul in the mainsheet, and release the jib sheet to right-side the jib. You'll initially be on roughly a beam reach.
—
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
Backing the jib only happens once you are through the wind so it will not help if the windage on the bow stops you ever getting that far round in stronger winds.
Whilst I agree that it is the start of heaving to, there is little point, IMHO, in using it at other times, except in very light airs to help her round. If used in stronger conditions, the bow will blow so far round that you then have to grind in the sheet under pressure and head back uphill. Many racers go just through the wind and then steer straight for a few seconds to allow the crew to get the sheet in hard before bearing away onto close hauled. All good if you re quick and fit!
Backing starts after the cord of the sail (the straight line from luff to leach) passes through the wind. Since the jib is sheeted in this will be before the hull has passed through. The angle of the cord varies as you go up the sail due to the geometry but as soon as it begins to fill it will contribute turning moment and aid the tack. I certainly find my 26X tacks better if backed.
I bought my jib from Judy at Hyde sails direct in the US. She suggested adding the luff pads. These help maintain sail shape when the jib is partially rolled in. Not sure of the theory but it is a nice sail.
David Claassen
"Logan's Run"
2006 26M
When beating,in a keelboat or dinghy , you can point up a bit in a gust and ride the wind pointing higher and giving you more sea room to make a mark and compensate for some of the leeway so on my first sail in Sowenna on the Thames I tried this when wind gusted through some high rise flats and Sowenna continued to tack through the wind and came out the other side on te opposite tack. So we sat there stunned in the middle of the river wondering what had happened. I said I must have hardened up too much so we set off again and the same thing happened.We checked the dagger board was down and the rudders were working so tried again with the same result. People say a Mac is like a big dinghy but I have sailed many dinghies and keelboats this has never happened so off we set again with the intention of stopping Sowenna heading into the wind only to lose our nerve when she heeled over too much. How can we race or cruise in company if we can't steer a straight line? So by trial and error and by this time we were down by Dagenham having started off near North Woolwich, we started spilling wind from the mainsail. We tried using the traveller and that worked but we felt more comfortable loosing the main,then hardening up after the gust. A bit of practise ad co-ordination between helmsman and main sail handler makes perfect.
I have also experienced not being able to tack which can be embarrassing. Like Chris I ended up jybing, not being able to use the engine as I was racing. I put this down to the current being stronger than the wind, even though I was beating at 5 knots at the time. Even bearing away and building up some speed didn't work.
So have those of you with mor experience able to give a reason why Macs are hard to tack, sometimes.
ps You shouldn't allow a Mac to heel more than 20/25 degrees. The hull is not designed for it looses its bite or grip.
Mush respect for Roly for crossing the Solent in a storm.
I hope to see many of you at the BIGMAC when we can discuss such matters.
Simon Armitage
Sowenna 26 M
Well now you know how to stop her tacking involuntarily, you’ll know how to make her tack when you want to :)
Leigh Ross
Crieff
0777 558-4561
1990 MacGregor 26S Ptarmigan
1992 MacGregor 26S Pelican
Hi Leigh & Simon,
Your experiences and advice are most welcome I will experiment with the various techniques on my next gusty sail which might be next Wednesday when I’m taking my crew who has offered to help me sail up to Bradwell for the Big Mac out for the first time. I’ll try not to scare him too much !!
Ill also measure the jib to see what percentage it is - now I know how - thanks Leigh
Ill let you know how it goes,
Thanks again,
John
ASHANTI2008M
Going about unpredictable?
Regarding difficulties with going about, we got advice from Colin Winter 2 years ago. He suggested backing the jib. That is leaving the jib untouched for the first part of the tack. The wind will fill the wrong side early on and push the bow round. Once the turn is secure the jib can be sheeted in on the correct side.
It has made all the difference to our confidence in tacking.
Really appreciate everyone's input to this site!
Adrian Cox
Shema 2008 26M
Based in Chichester Harbour
Hi again Leigh,
I’ve measured the foot of my jib it’s 3.25m which I guess’s makes my jib 110% this could be why plus my not sheeting the Main as per Roly’s advice the reason for the excessive heel.
Anyway, tomorrow I’m out with my prospective crew for the trip to Bradwell let’s hope we have a few gusts to practice with.
Regards
John
ASHANTI 2008M
Regarding tacking -
We were discussing this with Colin Winter a little while ago. He suggested backing the jib to help tack. This is simply leaving the jib sheet until the wind fills the opposite side. This brings the bow round smartly. When the tack is secure the jib can be sheeted in on the opposite side.
We've found it has been a great help. Does anyone else do this?
Adrian Cox
Shema 2008 26M Chichester
Hi Adrian
Yes, backwinding the job is a very handy technique, I do it all the time.
It's also the first step in a heave-to manoeuvre, which is a very useful thing to be able to do. It enables you to "park" your boat for a while in the middle of the water.
To heave-to, start to go about but leave the jib back-winded, then as the boom comes across, release the main sheet, leaving the main totally de-powered. At the same time put the helm hard over the opposite way (as if trying to reverse the tack), and lock it in place. The boat will now sit in a stable position, barely moving.
To continue sailing, put the helm straight, haul in the mainsheet, and release the jib sheet to right-side the jib. You'll initially be on roughly a beam reach.
Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight
Backing the jib only happens once you are through the wind so it will not help if the windage on the bow stops you ever getting that far round in stronger winds.
Whilst I agree that it is the start of heaving to, there is little point, IMHO, in using it at other times, except in very light airs to help her round. If used in stronger conditions, the bow will blow so far round that you then have to grind in the sheet under pressure and head back uphill. Many racers go just through the wind and then steer straight for a few seconds to allow the crew to get the sheet in hard before bearing away onto close hauled. All good if you re quick and fit!
Regards
Chris
I beg to differ.
Backing starts after the cord of the sail (the straight line from luff to leach) passes through the wind. Since the jib is sheeted in this will be before the hull has passed through. The angle of the cord varies as you go up the sail due to the geometry but as soon as it begins to fill it will contribute turning moment and aid the tack. I certainly find my 26X tacks better if backed.
Forgive my noddy sketch:
Backing
Dave Newton Sailbadthesinner
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