rudder mountings

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mike.floutier
mike.floutier's picture
Thanks Dave, yes it's an M, I

Thanks Dave, yes it's an M, I can't even remember if I had my DB down at the time. It was my first try at a pontoon and I was concerned about the depth of water. Will try it again with full DB and straight rudders and see how I do:)

MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit -  Suzuki DF50

roly.simpson
Hi Mike.  I have an M.  I don

Hi Mike. I have an M. I don't think the exact parallel alignment is an issue worth bothering with since there is quite a bit of play anyway. The main problem is have is that the rudders on the m turn further in one direction than the other. I think this is so with all of them and is due to the fixing bolts pushing against the ports side stern floatation charmber. I have thought to adjust or lengthen the tube but haven't managed to work it out without mucking something else up. The best idea I have would be to enlarge the hole and put a great big rubber sleeve on it. I've heard of people doing something similar to reduce the scratching sound and also to reduce water ingress along the metal tube.

When sailing or at speed there is no problem only when making a tight turn in a marina or river.

Roly

mike.floutier
mike.floutier's picture
Yes Roly I know what you mean

Yes Roly I know what you mean about the turning circle, like you I'd like to fix it.

And I agree about not needed to get the rudder alignment exact; my problem is that it's about 10 degrees out so I'm definitely going to correct it, especially since it's so simple to do.

I guess then, having hacked the steering gear around a bit I'll feel more confident to tackle the turning circle issue.

Will keep you posted.

MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit -  Suzuki DF50

mike.floutier
mike.floutier's picture
Here is a pic of the very

Here is a pic of the very simple mod to adjust the rudder alignment on an M.

See gallery comment for details

I still haven't figured out how to post pics to comments without needing to add to a gallery - sorry Rick:)

MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit -  Suzuki DF50

mike.floutier
mike.floutier's picture
Here's a pic of the OBM link

Here's a pic of the OBM link bar with new hole drilled. Quite a job to drill the SS.

Rudders and outboard are now all aligned.

I also squeezed the metal plates that hold the rudders as these had been bent apart. Did this with a bench vice; good fun on the water from my dinghy:) Also tightened the rudder bolts which were quite loose. btw one problem relating to these plates getting bent apart is that the rudder adjusting nuts no longer have a stop to bang up against; messing up any adjustment setting.

While round the back I also noticed that neither rudder was pointing straight down so I adjusted this as well.

At this stage I realised that the bracket holding the port rudder adjusting bolt was loose.

Anyway all fixed now. One benefit of working on the rudders from a bobbing dinghy is that working in the confines of the aft berth seems a lot easier.

MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit -  Suzuki DF50

john.pompei
Now that I have ASHANTI on

Now that I have ASHANTI on the trailer for the winter I decided to take a closer look at the rudders and as the attached photo shows there is a lot of play due to the "Flareing" of the stock as discussed earlier in this thread.

I am going to try to straighten the stock using a portable vice as suggested.

It occurred to me that the stock could perhaps be strengthened by welding a piece of stainless steel angle or U section to the stock once it was straightened. To do this it would be necessary to remove the stock from the boat and it looks like it can be removed by undoing the 4 bolts of the bottom pivot bracket.

My question is, does anyone know how those bolts are fixed ? Do they go right through the hull with nut on the inside or is there a threaded plate glassed into the hull ? Or what ??

John

ASHANTI 2008M

david.claassen
david.claassen's picture
John, 

John,

My rudder brackets were replaced as part of the work done this summer. I am fairly certain that the bolts go all the way through.

David

David Claassen

"Logan's Run"

2006 26M

mike.floutier
mike.floutier's picture
As far as I recall the

As far as I recall the "stocks" incorporate a "fuse" aspect in their design; i.e. They bend rather than the rudders fracturing.

I have checked them regularly and tightened/straightened them on the water or off as necessary.

On one occasion I noticed that a nut had worked lose; looks like it's worth replacing the nuts from time to time.

A good way to avoid some of the bending, is to avoid excessive weather and lee helm by balancing the sail/dagger-board plan carefully.

MacGregor 26M 2009 - Sky's the Limit -  Suzuki DF50

john.pompei
Hi David and Mike,

Hi David and Mike,

I did wonder if the splaying was, as you say Mike, a safety feature - I think I'm going to straighten them and maybe use the CD washers as suggested and see how that goes next season.

When I feel like a delve in the "back end" I'll endeavour to see if the bolts go all the way through.

Thanks

John

ASHANTI 2008M

roly.simpson
Yes John there is some

Yes John there is some flaring of the rudder stock

I think it's inevitable to some extent but the agent (there was one when I bought mine ) told me that it was due to the tendency for the rudder to be sucked in when motoring fast with them down. The manual says always pull them up if motoring above 6 knots....and I guess that means through the water!

I used a g clamp and bent it in more than straight so they ping out straight. Use CD packing as required. Need to remove the rudder from stock to do this of course.

Ps...if there is enough force to bend the stop k there could be cracks in your rudder ...check and repair inb.

Roly

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