Attention propeller heads!

rick.jones's picture

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  • Member Discussions:Technical

This is actually a serious query, but I hope I've got your attention! The problem is my outboard propeller is behaving in ways I don't understand, and not giving the results I should get from the engine.

The basic problem is that the propeller is not "gripping" the water, or in other terms I'm getting massive prop slip - 50% or more.

The engine is a Tohatsu 30HP, optimum rev range at WOT is 5250 - 6250, gear ratio is 2.17, and is mounted on a Mac 19. I've fitted a 9" pitch prop, which should be good for 15-18 kts without ballast. At 18 the slip would be 10%. In practice the max is 11 kts, with the engine spinning at 5750. That's the ideal revs, but the prop slip is around 45%. That makes no sense to me.

Something else that seems odd is that if you open up the engine to WOT with the boat stationary, the revs hit 5750 immediately, before the boat's even started to move. It's as if the prop's just not getting any traction in the water.

Some things I've read suggest that I need a prop with a bigger blade area, either larger blades, and/or a 4-blade. I wouldn't have thought increasing the pitch would do much, it would either overload the engine or lead to even more slip.

I think the prop height is OK, I've attached a photo of the motor fully down, taken at the level of the anti-cavitation plate. It's definitely well into the water. The plate is below the bottom of the hull - can a prop be too deep?

I'd appreciate any thoughts from the technically minded, and those with experience of messing with props. I'm tempted to go for a stainless 4-blade, but it would be expensive, and a lot of wasted money if it's not the answer!

Thanks in advance.

Outboard leg - White Lightning

Outboard leg - White Lightning

Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight

22 Comments

 

Random thoughts:

The position looks good, well clear of the hull. I've never heard of any argument that a prop can be too deep other than problems of excessive leverage from a long shaft engine on an insubstantial transom. Not really an issue for a Mac as the transom structure is rock solid.

Is it a problem with trim? Is the prop working hard to lift or sink the stern rather than push it forward? That would explain the high slip.

It looks like a rather small prop for 30HP, I'd have expected to see greater surface area, either from bigger diameter or more blades. That's simply based on the typical sizes I've seen on various RHIBs etc. But they have a low mass to wetted area ratio compared to a Mac.

Are there any trim / prop walk plates missing? That might screw up the intended flow around the prop.

Is the prop on backwards? Doesn't look like it and not normally possible to do, I'm clutching at straws now!

Dave.

Dave Newton Sailbadthesinner

leigh.ross's picture

What’s the diameter ? A very

What’s the diameter ? A very short search for outboard props for 30hp outboards shows a range between about 9-12 inches. If the engines revs up immediately without moving the boat I’d suggest that implies too small a prop.

Leigh Ross

Crieff

0777 558-4561

1990 MacGregor 26S Ptarmigan 

1992 MacGregor 26S Pelican 

rick.jones's picture

Hi Leigh

Hi Leigh

Diameter is 9.7", Tohatsu stock. You're confirming my own suspicions, I need to look for a larger diameter and/or blade area, i need to measure the clearances to see how big a one will fit!

Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight

rick.jones's picture

Hi Dave

Hi Dave

Thanks for your thoughts.

I don't think it's a trim problem, the prop shaft is pretty much dead horizontal. There's no plates missing, and I'm sure the prop's the right way round - as you say it's pretty much impossible to fit in reverse, this is how it arrived from Tohatsu (it was new last winter).

It's Tohatsu's stock 9" pitch prop (9.7" diameter), and I agree that it seems quite small, in diameter and area, which is my thought as to what's wrong. There's a good clearance below the plate to go at least an inch bigger in diameter I would have thought. I forgot to measure that, must check when I next visit the yard.

Is there any minimum recommended clearance between the edge of the prop and the plate?

Would you recommend anywhere particular as a supplier of props?

Thanks.

Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight

james.brine's picture

Just a thought rick bit is

Just a thought rick bit is the prop not the problem? Does the engine have some sort of slipper clutch in addition to the shear pin to prevent damage in a grounding or entanglement situation. Is it positively going into gear? Is the prop turning on the shaft somehow? I can’t imagine it can move on the splines but I have known the rubber ‘cush drive’ centre of the prop come apart from the body of the prop. Try putting it in gear and trying to turn the prop by hand. Might give you an indication.

rick.jones's picture

Hi James

Hi James

I'm pretty sure that's not the issue, I'll double check next time I'm at the boat though. There's loads of water churning when the prop's spinning, so I don't think it's slipping on the shaft. I've done over 50 hours on it already, so if that were a problem I think the hub would have disintegrated by now!

Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight

Rick

Rick

My initial thought was that perhaps the propeller was slipping on the rubber insert as James has said above. The cavitation plate should be 0.2 to 1 inch below the bottom of the boat any deeper produces additional drag. The angle of the motor to the transome should toe in about 12 degrees to get the boat nose down and lift it up onto the flatter stern area. I looked up the performance figures for a mac 19 on the macgregor site and it said 25 mph with a 40 hp motor another site said 25 mph with 50 hp motor so we are looking at 22 knots. The waterline length is 17 feet so max displacement speed 5.53 knots, semi displacement up to 10.3 knots then boat begins to plane, at about 10 knots it needs all the available power to get the boat out of the hole. I tried to find any posts on the web site for mac 19 and potential speed the only mention I could find was 11 to 12 knots maximum with a 25 HP evenrude etec. This would be a 2 stroke that delivers lots of torque, it is normal practice to go an engine size higher in HP when going from a 2 stroke to a 4 stroke engine to get equivalent performance.

When I took my aluminium propellers to a prop shop to get them repaired I asked what efficiency I should expect. The reply was about 45% in displacement mode and a maximum of about 70% when planing on my X the prop efficiency is about 65%. Looking at American mac site and actual performance figures mac M with 70hp suzuki 64% propeller efficiency, Mac M with 100hp 64% at lower speed and 82% at 23 knots . For your boat the prop efficiency is about 56% which is quite good for a power boat just abut to plane where maximum turbulence is being created around the hull.

When doing a safety boat coarse we took out a 4.6m rib with a 30 hp yamaha motor, It would not plane with 2 big boys and the instructor on board, the bow came up and it ploughed through the water. The next day we took out a similar rib with a 40 hp yamaha this time the boat lifted out of semi displacement mode the bow came down and it reached 22 knots shown by my GPS. The first boat just did not have the power to get out of the hole.

A 9 inch pitch prop rotating at 2650 rpm would achieve 19.6 knots at 100% efficiency or 12.8knots at 65 % efficiency. The answer to higher speed is increase available HP and back off power when on plane.

rick.jones's picture

Hi David

Hi David

Thanks for your detailed thoughts. Fitting a modern motor on a 19 is actually a bit of a challenge. When the boat was designed in the mid '90s, a 40HP was a compact 2-stroke machine. When I bought the boat it had such an engine, but it was pull-start and manual tilt, and a typical 2-stroke pain. I decided to put a modern engine on it, but all current 40HP engines are de-tuned 50s, and hence bigger and heavier.

I actually bought a Tohatsu TLDI 50, the same that I'd used previously on my X and been very happy with. It's the lightest 50HP available (but 95kg even so), and the only one where the power head is small enough to fit the 19's engine well and still turn. It provided the power, but was really physically too big - it wouldn't fully tilt up, and was rather too much weight on the stern. It was also very noisy - in the 19's cockpit you are very close to the engine, much more so than an X or M.

I began to think last winter that it might be better to sacrifice power for a quieter ride, less stern weight, and a more manageable motor. As it turned out I got a good offer for the 50, and my boat yard did a good deal on a new 30, so I was able to swap engines for quite a small outlay. Overall I'm pleased with the result, but I just feel the motor should be able to transfer power to the water more efficiently. The fact that the engine spins at full revs regardless of the boat speed is what makes me think the prop is not doing its job.

Trim is also a bit of a problem on the 19, as its transom is pretty much vertical. The motor is mounted on wedges, but it still doesn't trim down as much as I'd like. I'm sure it would help if it would. Maybe I need more wedges!

I can't help thinking a 4-blade stainless prop would help, Solas do one, but it's about £200! A lot of money if it doesn't make much difference.

I will keep chewing things over ...

Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight

I am no expert on outboards

I am no expert on outboards or props but, Rick, was it better earlier this year? Was the change sudden? Is it possible to think back through the year's sailing to try and identify point when the output dropped and then investigate any changes. You have the winter to think about things.

Not much technical help, I'm afraid.

Simon

rick.jones's picture

Hi Simon

Hi Simon

No, nothing's changed, it's been like this since I fitted it. I've just been chewing it over more now it's winter and there's more time for theory than practice!

Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight

james.brine's picture

Well, as I said Rick, you are

Well, as I said Rick, you are welcome to borrow my ‘propulse’ adjustable pitch prop to eliminate pitch issues and then just buy the correct pitch for your boat. I’m pretty sure it’ll fit. It was bought for a tohatsu 50. I’ll have a look on their website later and see.

rick.jones's picture

Thanks James, very good of

Thanks James, very good of you. I'll get back to you this come the spring when I'm ready to put the boat back in the water. It would certainly be an interesting test!

I take it yours is a model 6902, that's the one for all Tohatsus in their list. They don't actually list the 25/30 HP 4-stroke range, but I think the prop fit is the same.

Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight

A 9 inch pitch isn't a lot

A 9 inch pitch isn't a lot for a 9.7 " prop used in a high torque, low speed application like a Mac. If you are seeing high cavitation you need to increase the pitch to reduce the revs and improve the grip on the water. The Yamaha 50s fitted as standard to the 26Ms are a high torque motor that use a larger than standard prop with a larger pitch than would normally be fitted to a motor of this size. In the case of a Y50HT motor its a 13 5/8" prop with a 13 " pitch. If the propeller isn't slipping due to a failed cutlas bearing - The rubbery bit that links the shaft to the blade hub- and its deep enough to prevent air drawing down from the surface then it has to be cavitation due to tip over speed so you either increase the pitch to increase the torque or increase the prop diameter depending on availability. Motor revs falling are not a problem as long as its not too much. A stainless prop is expensive compared to an aluminium prop - about 3 to 5x for a Yamaha 50 and if you hit something with it it is likely to damage both the prop and the gearbox. I personally think its better to buy an aluminium prop and replace if its damaged.

I recently bought a Yamaha one for £80 on ebay compared to £180 from a Yamaha agency - both the old damaged one and the new £80 one have the same casting marks ! So suggest you shop around as it looks like a 12" pitch prop can be had for your motor for about £40 - 50 on ebay or other online stores.

A Macs boat speed has a lot more to do with sea state and the weight carried than just the motor and prop. We can manage 18 knots when its flat calm two up and with a load of cruising junk on board but this falls to about 12 knots just up on the plane when there's a slight chop running with the motor at full throttle.

Mike C - Tarka 26M

leigh.ross's picture

Mike,

Mike,

i think you’ve got it backwards. Increasing the pitch will increase the slip, not reduce it. A lower pitch is better for a slower boat. A slower,heavier boat will require more mass accelerated less for efficiency. So a larger diameter , lower pitch prop is the way to go.

Just run the numbers. With rpm and time being constants then a lower pitch will move the boat more slowly. If that slower speed is the actual maximum speed of the boat, then max efficiency has been obtained. If the pitch is higher , then you’re just going to get cavitation ,not higher speed. The higher pitch prop just can’t transfer the power to the water

Its the same with drag racing. You are restricted in the power you can transfer to the ground by the characteristics and size of the tyre contact area.

Leigh Ross

Crieff

0777 558-4561

1990 MacGregor 26S Ptarmigan 

1992 MacGregor 26S Pelican 

Hi Leigh,

Hi Leigh,

I agree with your comments if the prop is already over pitched but in this case it appears to be under pitched with the tip speed causing the cavitation. So if you increase the prop diameter then this will get even worse for the same rpm so the only option is to increase the pitch. As a (oversimplified!) rule of thumb for outboard props 1 " of diameter is equivalent to about 2-3" of pitch in terms of power required and will effect the rpm by 300 to 400 rpm. The problem is that the requirements for pitch and diameter are different for high speed and low speed operation. Most yachts like the Macs run at less then flat out motor speeds as against ribs and similar that tend to run at near max rpm more of the time. The reason for a large diameter prop and relatively large pitch is to improve torque - think about the huge props diameters run at low rpm on tugs. If the tip speed is high compared to the water moving past it i.e. low boat speed operation, then cavitation is going to be a major influence which is why I was suggesting a larger pitch to reduce the speed of the tip through the water as on most outboards you can't increase the diameter much because of the anticavitation plate clearance. Most outboards are supplied intended for relatively low torque, high speed applications which is why the Yamaha high torque motors fitted as standard to Macs were supplied with a lower gearing to swing a larger diameter higher pitch propeller.

An interesting discussion but of course the only way to really test the theory is to actually get hold of a different prop and see which way the change occurs. Theory is only useful if it works in practice.

Mike C - Tarka 26M

leigh.ross's picture

Yup, my bad , cavitation

Yup, my bad , cavitation caused by tip speed could be the issue. I’m pretty sure a tech rep at one of the engine dealers has a chart that would so,be this conundrum.

Leigh Ross

Crieff

0777 558-4561

1990 MacGregor 26S Ptarmigan 

1992 MacGregor 26S Pelican 

john.pompei's picture

Hi Mike,

Hi Mike,

I’ve been following this thread, and as you know I’m a new boy to Macs and as my outboard is a 50 Yamaha 2008 model its probably a similar spec. to yours.

Id be interested to know the maximum revs you can achieve flat our with the ballast in, the best I made was 4800rpm which gave a speed of 10-12 knots.

When I removed the ballast on a different occasion I made 15 knots with one crew on the way back from the Big Mac but didn’t clock the revs.

Another interesting bit of info was that I did some fuel usage tests before coming up to Bradwell and more miles could be travelled per litre at 4500 rpm at 10kn + that at 6knts . I guess this is because the boat is out of displacement at the higher speed.

Just some observations,

Regards,

John

ASHANTI2008M

Hi John,

Hi John,

The published Yamaha F50 fuel figures for our motor are:

Flat out on a good day with calm water, little or no wind, two up we have seen 18 knots at max revs which is about 5400 rpm with the the high torque motor gearbox and the standard 13 5/8 inch x 13 pitch prop. But in most sea states we struggle to get above 14 -16 Knots when the tide is taken into consideration eg average of 2 back to back results in opsoite courses.

I tried to plot RPM against speed a couple of years ago but the day we did it was a bit choppy with a BF 3-4 wind so we couldn't get the full hull speed we get on a calm day but for the record what we actually found was:

We normally manage to cruise home on the Blackwater when the wind drops or if we are trying to make a tide at about 12 knots just up on the plane at circa 4000 rpm and 9/10 litres per hour consumption. We aso find we can motor sail home at a steady 6 knots with a much lower rpm and point much higher than under sail alone.

The later Yamaha 50s are fuel injected after about 2005-6 and more fuel efficient - ours has 4 carbs.

Hope this helps.

Mike C - Tarka 26M

john.pompei's picture

Thanks for your reply Mike

Thanks for your reply Mike

unfortunately the figures you posted (? Spreadsheet) only appeared as a box.

My Yamaha is fuel injected high thrust but I don’t know the prop data. Next time Im at the yard I will attempt to measure it . The diameter is oK but how to tell the pitch - are there markings ?

I did a few trials and at 2900 rpm 6kn used 5l/hr and at 4000rpm 10 kn 8l/hr.

Regards

John

Hi John,

Hi John,

In most cases on the Yamaha motors the propeller markings are unhelpfully cast into the propeller hub that faces the gearbox so can only be read by removing the propeller. A few have them on the base of the blade according to the manual but Ive never seen one that has when looking round the boatyard. I guess you can relatively easily directly measure the diameter though the pitch is more difficult to measure.

I've tried adding the two graphs I have as pdf files but not sure how it relates to teh fuel injected version of the motor. Your luck to have the fuel injected version. I had to spend a couple of days stripping down all four carbs and replacing the seals and float valves as when mine had a fuel leak this summer. A real pain to do hanging off the back of the boat to remove them all.

Interestingly the figures you give are very similar to the ones I have. Your 6kn at 2900 rpm is the same and I suspect our slightly lower speed at 4000 rpm is due to the being a bit of chop slowing us in our test. The fuel consumption figures in my graphs are from the US Yamaha site for our model of motor but the speeds are as we measured them in the Blackwater. The close similarity suggest you have the same 13 5/8" x 13" prop as both our motors are the high thrust versions which came fitted with the lower gear ratio gearbox and propeller with a larger diameter and pitch than the standard motor.

Thanks for hte data. I hope you can see the attached graphs this time.

Mike C - Tarka 26M

john.pompei's picture

Hi Mike

Hi Mike

I can see the graphs OK now.

Thanks a lot for your trouble,

Regards

John

ASHANTI 2008M

rick.jones's picture

Thanks everyone for all your

Thanks everyone for all your helpful responses.

Cavitation isn't something I've ever paid much attention to, so I've been reading up on it a bit, and it does sound as though tip cavitation might be part of the problem. This would result from the prop spinning too fast, and as result it would loose grip and spin faster!

I've always paid heed to the standard recommendation that the engine should be able to reach the recommended revs at WOT, and that under-revving over stresses the engine. But maybe at this kind of power/weight ratio a bit of under-revving with a higher pitch prop can be tolerated. I think that's the way to go.

Rick Jones (Treasurer), former 26X & 19 owner, Isle of Wight